Spectral wave model input files

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Metadata:

Identification_Information
Data_Quality_Information
Spatial_Data_Organization_Information
Spatial_Reference_Information
Entity_and_Attribute_Information
Distribution_Information
Metadata_Reference_Information

Identification_Information:

Citation:

Citation_Information:

Originator: Andrew W. Stevens
Originator: Kai A. Parker
Originator: Sean Vitousek
Publication_Date: 20240815
Title: Spectral wave model input files
Geospatial_Data_Presentation_Form: various
Series_Information:

Series_Name: data release
Issue_Identification: DOI:10.5066/P1R9REKP

Publication_Information:

Publication_Place:

Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center, Santa Cruz, California

Publisher: U.S. Geological Survey

Online_Linkage: https://doi.org/10.5066/P1R9REKP
Larger_Work_Citation:

Citation_Information:

Originator: Andrew W. Stevens
Originator: Kai A. Parker
Originator: Sean Vitousek
Publication_Date: 2024
Title:

Modeled nearshore wave parameters along the Columbia River littoral cell, Washington and Oregon, 2010-2023

Series_Information:

Series_Name: data release
Issue_Identification: DOI:10.5066/P1R9REKP

Publication_Information:

Publication_Place: Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center, Santa Cruz, CA
Publisher: U.S. Geological Survey

Other_Citation_Details:

Suggested Citation: Stevens, A.W., Parker, K.A., Vitousek, S., 2024, Modeled nearshore wave parameters along the Columbia River littoral cell, Washington and Oregon, 2010-2023: U.S. Geological Survey data release, https://doi.org/10.5066/P1R9REKP.

Online_Linkage: https://doi.org/10.5066/P1R9REKP

Description:

Abstract:

A stand-alone wave model application was constructed using the spectral wave model SWAN within the Delft3D4 (version 4.04.01) modeling system to simulate nearshore wave dynamics along the coast of the Columbia River littoral cell, Washington and Oregon. Nearshore wave dynamics are solved at hourly intervals on a series of nested grids with resolutions varying between 750 m for the largest grid to about 80 m for the two detailed grids that cover the Grays Harbor and Columbia River inlets. The provided model input files are compressed into zip archives for each year of a hindcast simulation between August 2014 and September 2023. Additional input files are included that specify a second hindcast for the time period between July 2010 and August 2011.

Purpose:

The wave model application was constructed to investigate spatial and temporal variability in nearshore wave dynamics along the Columbia River littoral cell. The purpose of this data release is to provide researchers, engineers, and other potential users with model input files that can be used to run the SWAN wave model using the Delft3D4 modeling system.

Supplemental_Information:

Any use of trade, product, or firm names is for descriptive purposes only and does not imply endorsement by the U.S. Government.

Time_Period_of_Content:

Time_Period_Information:

Range_of_Dates/Times:

Beginning_Date: 20100711
Ending_Date: 20230831

Currentness_Reference: ground condition at time data were collected

Status:

Progress: Complete
Maintenance_and_Update_Frequency: None Planned

Spatial_Domain:

Bounding_Coordinates:

West_Bounding_Coordinate: -125.318227
East_Bounding_Coordinate: -123.644232
North_Bounding_Coordinate: 47.499469
South_Bounding_Coordinate: 45.661607

Keywords:

Theme:

Theme_Keyword_Thesaurus: USGS Metadata Identifier
Theme_Keyword: USGS:5114a7e0-9fa5-48e8-8741-1b748b87dd34

Theme:

Theme_Keyword_Thesaurus: Data Categories for Marine Planning
Theme_Keyword: Predictions

Theme:

Theme_Keyword_Thesaurus: USGS Thesaurus
Theme_Keyword: mathematical simulation
Theme_Keyword: ocean waves

Theme:

Theme_Keyword_Thesaurus: Marine Realms Information Bank (MRIB) keywords
Theme_Keyword: numerical modeling
Theme_Keyword: waves
Theme_Keyword: coastal processes

Theme:

Theme_Keyword_Thesaurus: None
Theme_Keyword: U.S. Geological Survey
Theme_Keyword: USGS
Theme_Keyword: Coastal and Marine Hazards and Resources Program
Theme_Keyword: CMHRP
Theme_Keyword: Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center
Theme_Keyword: PCMSC
Theme_Keyword: Delft3D

Theme:

Theme_Keyword_Thesaurus: ISO 19115 Topic Category
Theme_Keyword: geoscientificInformation

Place:

Place_Keyword_Thesaurus: Geographic Names Information System (GNIS)
Place_Keyword: Pacific Ocean
Place_Keyword: Columbia River
Place_Keyword: Grays Harbor
Place_Keyword: State of Washington
Place_Keyword: State of Oregon

Access_Constraints: no access constraints
Use_Constraints:

USGS-authored or produced data and information are in the public domain from the U.S. Government and are freely redistributable with proper metadata and source attribution. Please recognize and acknowledge the U.S. Geological Survey as the originator(s) of the dataset and in products derived from these data.

Point_of_Contact:

Contact_Information:

Contact_Person_Primary:

Contact_Person: PCMSC Science Data Coordinator
Contact_Organization:

U.S. Geological Survey, Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center

Contact_Address:

Address_Type: mailing and physical
Address: 2885 Mission Street
City: Santa Cruz
State_or_Province: CA
Postal_Code: 95060-5792
Country: USA

Contact_Voice_Telephone: 831-427-4747
Contact_Electronic_Mail_Address: pcmsc_data@usgs.gov

Browse_Graphic:

Browse_Graphic_File_Name: crlc_swan_hsig_example.png
Browse_Graphic_File_Description:

Example output of a wave simulation showing spatial variations in wave height for, A, the overall model domain, B, the nested detailed grid for the Columbia River, and C, the nested detailed grid for Grays Harbor.

Browse_Graphic_File_Type: PNG

Native_Data_Set_Environment: Microsoft Windows 10 running Delft3D-Wave
Cross_Reference:

Citation_Information:

Originator: Deltares
Publication_Date: 2024
Title: Delft3D-FLOW User Manual (version 4.05)
Publication_Information:

Publication_Place: Delft, Netherlands
Publisher: Deltares

Online_Linkage:

https://content.oss.deltares.nl/delft3d4/Delft3D-FLOW_User_Manual.pdf

Cross_Reference:

Citation_Information:

Originator: Hans Hersbach
Originator: Bill Bell
Originator: Paul Berrisford
Originator: Shoji Hirahara
Originator: András Horányi
Originator: Joaquín Muñoz-Sabater
Originator: Julien Nicolas
Originator: Carole Peubey
Originator: Raluca Radu
Originator: Dinand Schepers
Originator: Adrian Simmons
Originator: Cornel Soci
Originator: Saleh Abdalla
Originator: Xavier Abellan
Originator: Gianpaolo Balsamo
Originator: Peter Bechtold
Originator: Gionata Biavati
Originator: Jean Bidlot
Originator: Massimo Bonavita
Originator: Giovanna De Chiara
Originator: Per Dahlgren
Originator: Dick Dee
Originator: Michail Diamantakis
Originator: Rossana Dragani
Originator: Johannes Flemming
Originator: Richard Forbes
Originator: Manuel Fuentes
Originator: Alan Geer
Originator: Leo Haimberger
Originator: Sean Healy
Originator: Robin J Hogan
Originator: Elías Hólm
Originator: Marta Janisková
Originator: Sarah Keely
Originator: Patrick Laloyaux
Originator: Philippe Lopez
Originator: Cristina Lupu
Originator: Gabor Radnoti
Originator: Patricia de Rosnay
Originator: Iryna Rozum
Originator: Freja Vamborg
Originator: Sebastien Villaume
Originator: Jean-Noël Thépaut
Publication_Date: 2020
Title: The ERA5 global reanalysis
Other_Citation_Details:

Hersbach, H., Bell, B., Berrisford, P., Hirahara, S., Horányi A., Muñoz-Sabater, J., Nicolas, J., Peubey, C., Radu, R., Schepers, D., Simmons, A., Soci, C., Abdalla, S., Abellan, X., Balsamo, G., Bechtold, P., Biavati, G., Bidlot, J., Bonavita, M., De Chiara, G., Dahlgren, P., Dee, D., Diamantakis, M., Dragani, R., Flemming, J., Forbes, R., Fuentes, M., Geer, A., Haimberger, L., Healy, S., Hogan, R.J., Hólm, E., Janisková, M., Keeley, S., Laloyaux, P., Lopez, P., Lupu, C., Radnoti, G., de Rosnay, P., Rozum, I., Vamborg, F., Villaume,S., Thépau, J.-N., 2020, The ERA5 global reanalysis, Quarterly Journal of the Royal Meteorological Society; v.146, no. 730, pp.1999–2049, https://doi.org/10.1002/qj.3803

Online_Linkage: https://doi.org/10.1002/qj.3803

Cross_Reference:

Citation_Information:

Originator: Andrew W. Stevens
Originator: Edwin Elias
Originator: Stuart Pearson
Originator: George M. Kaminsky
Originator: Peter R. Ruggiero
Originator: Heather M. Weiner
Originator: Guy R. Gelfenbaum
Publication_Date: 2020
Title:

Observations of coastal change and numerical modeling of sediment-transport pathways at the mouth of the Columbia River and its adjacent littoral cell

Publication_Information:

Publication_Place: Reston, Virginia
Publisher: U.S. Geological Survey

Online_Linkage: https://doi.org//10.3133/ofr20201045

Cross_Reference:

Citation_Information:

Originator: Andrew W. Stevens
Originator: Guy Gelfenbaum
Originator: Peter Ruggiero
Originator: George M. Kaminsky
Publication_Date: 2012
Title:

Southwest Washington littoral drift restoration-Beach and nearshore morphological monitoring

Publication_Information:

Publication_Place: Reston, Virginia
Publisher: U.S. Geological Survey

Online_Linkage: https://doi.org/10.3133/ofr20121175

Cross_Reference:

Citation_Information:

Originator: David C. Dowell
Originator: Curtis R. Alexander
Originator: Eric P. James
Originator: Stephen S. Weygandt
Originator: Stanley G. Benjamin
Originator: Geoffrey S. Manikin
Originator: Benjamin T. Blake
Originator: John M. Brown
Originator: Joseph B. Olsen
Originator: Ming Hu
Originator: Tatiana G. Smirnova
Originator: Terra Ladwig
Originator: Jaymes S. Kenyon
Originator: Ravan Ahmadov
Originator: David D. Turner
Originator: Jeffrey D. Duda
Originator: Trevor I. Alcott
Publication_Date: 2022
Title:

The High-Resolution Rapid Refresh (HRRR): An Hourly Updating Convection-Allowing Forecast Model. Part I: Motivation and System Description

Online_Linkage: https://doi.org/10.1175/WAF-D-21-0151.1

Cross_Reference:

Citation_Information:

Originator: R.M. Rasmussen
Originator: F. Chen
Originator: C.H. Liu
Originator: K. Ikeda
Originator: A. Prein
Originator: J. Kim
Originator: T. Schneider
Originator: A. Dai
Originator: D. Gochis
Originator: A. Dugger
Originator: Y. Zhang
Originator: A. Jaye
Originator: J. Dudhia
Originator: C. He
Originator: M. Harrold
Originator: L. Xue
Originator: S. Chen
Originator: A. Newman
Originator: E. Dougherty
Originator: R. Abolafia-Rosenzweig
Originator: N.D. Lybarger
Originator: R. Viger
Originator: D. Lesmes
Originator: K. Skalak
Originator: J. Brakebill
Originator: D. Cline
Originator: K. Dunne
Originator: K. Rasmussen
Originator: G. Miguez-Macho
Publication_Date: 2023
Title:

CONUS404: The NCAR–USGS 4-km Long-Term Regional Hydroclimate Reanalysis over the CONUS

Online_Linkage: https://doi.org/10.1175/BAMS-D-21-0326.1

Cross_Reference:

Citation_Information:

Originator: G.J. Komen
Originator: S. Hasselmann
Originator: K. Hasselmann
Publication_Date: 1984
Title: On the Existence of a Fully Developed Wind-Sea Spectrum
Online_Linkage: https://doi.org/10.1175/1520-0485(1984)014<1271:OTEOAF>2.0.CO;2

Cross_Reference:

Citation_Information:

Originator: J. Battjes
Originator: J. Janssen
Publication_Date: 1978
Title: Energy loss and setup due to breaking of random waves.
Online_Linkage: https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v16.32

Data_Quality_Information:

Attribute_Accuracy:

Attribute_Accuracy_Report:

The model predictions of wave parameters were first validated against buoy observations at 4 locations in water depths between 24 and 183 m. Wave parameters at all of the sites were simulated skillfully with maximum root mean square errors of 0.42 m, 2.64 s, and 30.21 deg and average skill scores of 0.97, 0.81, and 0.78, for significant wave heights, peak wave periods, and mean wave directions, respectively. Notably, biases of -10 and -7 degrees were observed in the predicted wave directions for the two northern wave buoys.

Logical_Consistency_Report: All data falls within expected ranges.
Completeness_Report:

Dataset is considered complete for the information presented, as described in the abstract. Users are advised to read the metadata for each part of this data release carefully for additional details.

Positional_Accuracy:

Horizontal_Positional_Accuracy:

Horizontal_Positional_Accuracy_Report:

A formal accuracy assessment of the horizontal positional information in the data set has either not been conducted or is not applicable.

Vertical_Positional_Accuracy:

Vertical_Positional_Accuracy_Report:

A formal accuracy assessment of the vertical positional information in the data set has either not been conducted or is not applicable.

Lineage:

Process_Step:

Process_Description:

The spectral wave model SWAN was applied using the Delft3D-Wave modeling system (Deltares, 2024) to simulate wave transformation and dynamics from offshore of the continental shelf to the coastline. The model application consisted of nested grids with resolutions varying between 750 m for the largest grid to about 80 m for the two detailed grids that cover the Grays Harbor and Columbia River inlets. Model bathymetry was derived from recent data sets collected by the USGS, NOAA, and USACE between 2004 and 2020 as described in Stevens and others (2020). Wave energy was discretized into 24 frequency bins between 0.03 and 1 Hz and 72 directional bins. The model was forced on the open lateral boundaries with bulk wave parameters obtained from the ERA5 reanalysis (Herschbach and others, 2023) and on the free surface with space- and time-varying wind vectors from the High Resolution Rapid Refresh (Dowell and others, 2022) operational forecast model with roughly 3 km spatial resolution. Wind growth and white-capping were based on Komen (1984). The JONSWAP bottom friction model with a coefficient of 0.038 m2s-3 and wave breaking based on Battjes and Jannsen (1978) with default settings (alpha = 1, gamma =0.73) were used. SWAN was run as a stand-alone wave model neglecting the effects of wave current interaction. Convergence criteria were set to 98 percent of cells and a maximum of 15 iterations during the simulations.

Process_Date: 20180105

Process_Step:

Process_Description:

The forcing conditions were updated and wave dynamics were solved within the model domains at 1-hr intervals in stationary mode between 2014 and 2023. A second hindcast was run between July 2010 to September 2011 to simulate seasonal variations in wave climate during the Southwest Washington Littoral Drift Restoration (SWLDR) beach nourishment and monitoring study (Stevens and others, 2012). The HRRR wind forcing was not available for this time period, so an alternative downscaled wind product was used (CONUS404, Rasmussen and others, 2023). CONUS404 is a high-resolution meteorological reanalysis created by downscaling ERA5 data to a 4-km spatial resolution over the continental United States using the Weather Research and Forecasting (WRF) Model.

Process_Date: 20240226

Process_Step:

Process_Description:

Files needed to run the SWAN wave models using the Delft3D4 modeling system were compiled into compressed archives for distribution.

Process_Date: 20240430

Spatial_Data_Organization_Information:

Indirect_Spatial_Reference:

Data were generated within a numerical model scheme. Refer to self-contained NetCDF files for location information.

Spatial_Reference_Information:

Horizontal_Coordinate_System_Definition:

Planar:

Grid_Coordinate_System:

Grid_Coordinate_System_Name: Universal Transverse Mercator
Universal_Transverse_Mercator:

UTM_Zone_Number: 10
Transverse_Mercator:

Scale_Factor_at_Central_Meridian: 0.9996
Longitude_of_Central_Meridian: -123.0
Latitude_of_Projection_Origin: 0.0
False_Easting: 500000.0
False_Northing: 0.0

Planar_Coordinate_Information:

Planar_Coordinate_Encoding_Method: row and column
Coordinate_Representation:

Abscissa_Resolution: 83.3
Ordinate_Resolution: 83.3

Planar_Distance_Units: Meter

Geodetic_Model:

Horizontal_Datum_Name: D_North_American_1983
Ellipsoid_Name: GRS_1980
Semi-major_Axis: 6378137.0
Denominator_of_Flattening_Ratio: 298.257222101

Vertical_Coordinate_System_Definition:

Altitude_System_Definition:

Altitude_Datum_Name: North American Vertical Datum of 1988
Altitude_Resolution: 0.01
Altitude_Distance_Units: meters
Altitude_Encoding_Method:

Explicit elevation coordinate included with horizontal coordinates

Entity_and_Attribute_Information:

Overview_Description:

Entity_and_Attribute_Overview:

Model inputs for SWAN spectral wave model of the of the Columbia River littoral cell run using the Delft3D4 modeling system. Delft3D4 can be obtained from: https://oss.deltares.nl/. The model input files are compressed into zip archives for each year of the hindcast simulation between 2014 and 2023, "crlc_swan_XXXX.zip", where XXXX denotes the year. Additional input files are included in the .zip archive, "crlc_swan_swldr.zip", that specify a second hindcast for the time period between July 2010 and August 2011.

Entity_and_Attribute_Detail_Citation:

See Deltares (2024) for descriptions of the formats and entity information for files contained in the .zip archive.

Distribution_Information:

Distributor:

Contact_Information:

Contact_Organization_Primary:

Contact_Organization:

U.S. Geological Survey - Coastal and Marine Geoscience Data System

Contact_Address:

Address_Type: Mailing and Physical Address
Address: 2885 Mission Street
City: Santa Cruz
State_or_Province: CA
Postal_Code: 95060
Country: USA

Contact_Voice_Telephone: 831-427-4747
Contact_Electronic_Mail_Address: pcmsc_data@usgs.gov

Resource_Description:

Model input files for the spectral wave model compatible with windows executable of Delft3D4 version 4.04.01 are provided in the zip archives. Browse graphic showing an example wave calculation is also provided along with associated metadata.

Distribution_Liability:

Unless otherwise stated, all data, metadata and related materials are considered to satisfy the quality standards relative to the purpose for which the data were collected. Although these data and associated metadata have been reviewed for accuracy and completeness and approved for release by the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS), no warranty expressed or implied is made regarding the display or utility of the data on any other system or for general or scientific purposes, nor shall the act of distribution constitute any such warranty.

Standard_Order_Process:

Digital_Form:

Digital_Transfer_Information:

Format_Name: various
Format_Version_Number: Delft3D-FLOW 4.04.01
Format_Information_Content:

zipped file folders containing model input files for SWAN wave model run using Delft3D4 version 4.04.01

File_Decompression_Technique: zip
Transfer_Size: 1508.14

Digital_Transfer_Option:

Online_Option:

Computer_Contact_Information:

Network_Address:

Network_Resource_Name: https://doi.org/10.5066/P1R9REKP

Access_Instructions:

Data may be accessed and downloaded via the Internet by using the Network_Resource_Name link and scrolling to the Simulation Data section.

Fees: None

Metadata_Reference_Information:

Metadata_Date: 20240815
Metadata_Contact:

Contact_Information:

Contact_Person_Primary:

Contact_Person: PCMSC Science Data Coordinator
Contact_Organization:

U.S. Geological Survey, Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center

Contact_Address:

Address_Type: mailing and physical
Address: 2885 Mission Street
City: Santa Cruz
State_or_Province: CA
Postal_Code: 95060

Contact_Voice_Telephone: 831-427-4747
Contact_Electronic_Mail_Address: pcmsc_data@usgs.gov

Metadata_Standard_Name: Content Standard for Digital Geospatial Metadata
Metadata_Standard_Version: FGDC-STD-001-1998

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