Modeled nearshore wave parameters

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Frequently anticipated questions:


What does this data set describe?

Title: Modeled nearshore wave parameters
Abstract:
This portion of the USGS data release contains simulated nearshore wave parameters derived from a stand-alone spectral wave model of the Columbia River littoral cell, Washington and Oregon. The model output includes significant wave heights, peak wave periods, mean wave directions, and water depths for a series of 221 shore normal transects that extended from the coastline to the -15 m NAVD88 elevation (about 16.5 m average water depth). Data are provided at the seaward extent of each transect as well as at the location of the break point, or location just outside the surf zone, which varied dynamically based on the local bathymetry and wave conditions. Additional data are provided at four locations corresponding to the locations of buoy observations used to validate the model application. The data are derived from two hindcasts solved at hourly intervals between 1) August 2014 to September 2023 (h1), and 2) July 2010 to August 2011 (h2). The data from both hindcasts were compiled into netCDF files for the nearshore and buoy locations for distribution.
Supplemental_Information:
Any use of trade, product, or firm names is for descriptive purposes only and does not imply endorsement by the U.S. Government.
  1. How might this data set be cited?
    Stevens, Andrew W., Parker, Kai A., and Vitousek, Sean, 20240815, Modeled nearshore wave parameters: data release DOI:10.5066/P1R9REKP, U.S. Geological Survey, Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center, Santa Cruz, California.

    Online Links:

    This is part of the following larger work.

    Stevens, Andrew W., Parker, Kai A., and Vitousek, Sean, 2024, Modeled nearshore wave parameters along the Columbia River littoral cell, Washington and Oregon, 2010-2023: data release DOI:10.5066/P1R9REKP, U.S. Geological Survey, Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center, Santa Cruz, CA.

    Online Links:

    Other_Citation_Details:
    Suggested Citation: Stevens, A.W., Parker, K.A., Vitousek, S., 2024, Modeled nearshore wave parameters along the Columbia River littoral cell, Washington and Oregon, 2010-2023: U.S. Geological Survey data release, https://doi.org/10.5066/P1R9REKP.
  2. What geographic area does the data set cover?
    West_Bounding_Coordinate: -124.739000
    East_Bounding_Coordinate: -123.949895
    North_Bounding_Coordinate: 47.352000
    South_Bounding_Coordinate: 46.109635
  3. What does it look like?
    crlc_swan_model_validation_example.png (PNG)
    A, Time-series of modeled and observed signficant wave height at the location of CDIP buoy 162 (Clatsop Spit), and scatter plots of B, modeled and observed significant wave heights, C, peak wave periods, and D, mean wave directions.
  4. Does the data set describe conditions during a particular time period?
    Beginning_Date: 11-Jul-2010
    Ending_Date: 31-Aug-2023
    Currentness_Reference:
    ground condition at time data were collected
  5. What is the general form of this data set?
    Geospatial_Data_Presentation_Form: NetCDF files
  6. How does the data set represent geographic features?
    1. How are geographic features stored in the data set?
      Indirect_Spatial_Reference:
      Data were generated within a numerical model scheme. Refer to self-contained NetCDF files for location information.
    2. What coordinate system is used to represent geographic features?
      Grid_Coordinate_System_Name: Universal Transverse Mercator
      Universal_Transverse_Mercator:
      UTM_Zone_Number: 10
      Transverse_Mercator:
      Scale_Factor_at_Central_Meridian: 0.9996
      Longitude_of_Central_Meridian: -123.0
      Latitude_of_Projection_Origin: 0.0
      False_Easting: 500000.0
      False_Northing: 0.0
      Planar coordinates are encoded using row and column
      Abscissae (x-coordinates) are specified to the nearest 83.3
      Ordinates (y-coordinates) are specified to the nearest 83.3
      Planar coordinates are specified in Meter
      The horizontal datum used is D_North_American_1983.
      The ellipsoid used is GRS_1980.
      The semi-major axis of the ellipsoid used is 6378137.0.
      The flattening of the ellipsoid used is 1/298.257222101.
      Vertical_Coordinate_System_Definition:
      Altitude_System_Definition:
      Altitude_Datum_Name: North American Vertical Datum of 1988
      Altitude_Resolution: 0.01
      Altitude_Distance_Units: meters
      Altitude_Encoding_Method:
      Explicit elevation coordinate included with horizontal coordinates
  7. How does the data set describe geographic features?
    Entity_and_Attribute_Overview:
    netCDF files are self-contained and attribute information may be found in the header of the file itself. Attributes included in each file are station identifier (station_id), latitude, longitude, time, depth, significant wave heights (hsig), peak wave periods (tpeak), and mean wave direction(mwd). Station identifiers are numbered sequentially from south to north.
    Entity_and_Attribute_Detail_Citation: U.S. Geological Survey

Who produced the data set?

  1. Who are the originators of the data set? (may include formal authors, digital compilers, and editors)
    • Andrew W. Stevens
    • Kai A. Parker
    • Sean Vitousek
  2. Who also contributed to the data set?
  3. To whom should users address questions about the data?
    PCMSC Science Data Coordinator
    U.S. Geological Survey, Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center
    2885 Mission Street
    Santa Cruz, CA
    USA

    831-427-4747 (voice)
    pcmsc_data@usgs.gov

Why was the data set created?

The wave model application was constructed to investigate spatial and temporal variability in nearshore wave dynamics along the Columbia River littoral cell. The purpose of this data release is to provide researchers, engineers, and other potential users with model input files that can be used to run the SWAN wave model using the Delft3D4 modeling system.

How was the data set created?

  1. From what previous works were the data drawn?
  2. How were the data generated, processed, and modified?
    Date: 05-Jan-2023 (process 1 of 4)
    The spectral wave model SWAN was applied using the Delft3D-Wave modeling system (Deltares, 2024) to simulate wave transformation and dynamics from offshore of the continental shelf to the coastline. The model application consisted of nested grids with resolutions varying between 750 m for the largest grid to about 80 m for the two detailed grids that cover the Grays Harbor and Columbia River inlets. Model bathymetry was derived from recent data sets collected by the USGS, NOAA, and USACE between 2004 and 2020 as described in Stevens and others (2020). Wave energy was discretized into 24 frequency bins between 0.03 and 1 Hz and 72 directional bins. The model was forced on the open lateral boundaries with bulk wave parameters obtained from the ERA5 reanalysis (Herschbach and others, 2023) and on the free surface with space- and time-varying wind vectors from the High Resolution Rapid Refresh (Dowell and others, 2022) operational forecast model with roughly 3 km spatial resolution. Wind growth and white-capping were based on Komen (1984). The JONSWAP bottom friction model with a coefficient of 0.038 m2s-3 and wave breaking based on Battjes and Jannsen (1978) with default settings (alpha = 1, gamma =0.73) were used. SWAN was run as a stand-alone wave model neglecting the effects of wave current interaction. Convergence criteria were set to 98 percent of cells and a maximum of 15 iterations during the simulations.
    Date: 26-Feb-2024 (process 2 of 4)
    The forcing conditions were updated and wave dynamics were solved within the model domains at 1-hr intervals in stationary mode between 2014 and 2023 (h1). A second hindcast was run between July 2010 to September 2011 (h2) to simulate seasonal variations in wave climate during the Southwest Washington Littoral Drift Restoration (SWLDR) beach nourishment and monitoring study (Stevens and others, 2012). The HRRR wind forcing was not available for this time period, so an alternative downscaled wind product was used (CONUS404, Rasmussen and others, 2023). CONUS404 is a high-resolution meteorological reanalysis created by downscaling ERA5 data to a 4-km spatial resolution over the continental United States using the Weather Research and Forecasting (WRF) Model.
    Date: 15-Apr-2024 (process 3 of 4)
    A series of 221 shore normal transects were defined throughout the study area that extended from the coastline to the -15 m NAVD88 elevation (about 16.5 m average water depth). For each hourly time step in the wave hindcast simulations, the estimated fraction of breaking waves was interpolated onto transect locations with a cross-shore resolution of 50 m. The location of the break point, or location just outside the surf zone, varied dynamically based on the local bathymetry and wave conditions. A threshold of 0.01 of the fraction of waves breaking was used to define the time- and space-varying break point along each transect. Model output parameters including significant wave height, peak wave period, mean wave direction, and water depth at this location were extracted for each time step and transect.
    Date: 30-Apr-2024 (process 4 of 4)
    Modeled wave parameters were compiled into netCDF files for distribution.
  3. What similar or related data should the user be aware of?
    Deltares, 2024, Delft3D-FLOW User Manual (version 4.05): Deltares, Delft, Netherlands.

    Online Links:

    Hersbach, Hans, Bell, Bill, Berrisford, Paul, Hirahara, Shoji, Horányi, András, Muñoz-Sabater, Joaquín, Nicolas, Julien, Peubey, Carole, Radu, Raluca, Schepers, Dinand, Simmons, Adrian, Soci, Cornel, Abdalla, Saleh, Abellan, Xavier, Balsamo, Gianpaolo, Bechtold, Peter, Biavati, Gionata, Bidlot, Jean, Bonavita, Massimo, Chiara, Giovanna De, Dahlgren, Per, Dee, Dick, Diamantakis, Michail, Dragani, Rossana, Flemming, Johannes, Forbes, Richard, Fuentes, Manuel, Geer, Alan, Haimberger, Leo, Healy, Sean, Hogan, Robin J, Hólm, Elías, Janisková, Marta, Keely, Sarah, Laloyaux, Patrick, Lopez, Philippe, Lupu, Cristina, Radnoti, Gabor, Rosnay, Patricia de, Rozum, Iryna, Vamborg, Freja, Villaume, Sebastien, and Thépaut, Jean-Noël, 2020, The ERA5 global reanalysis.

    Online Links:

    Other_Citation_Details:
    Hersbach, H., Bell, B., Berrisford, P., Hirahara, S., Horányi A., Muñoz-Sabater, J., Nicolas, J., Peubey, C., Radu, R., Schepers, D., Simmons, A., Soci, C., Abdalla, S., Abellan, X., Balsamo, G., Bechtold, P., Biavati, G., Bidlot, J., Bonavita, M., De Chiara, G., Dahlgren, P., Dee, D., Diamantakis, M., Dragani, R., Flemming, J., Forbes, R., Fuentes, M., Geer, A., Haimberger, L., Healy, S., Hogan, R.J., Hólm, E., Janisková, M., Keeley, S., Laloyaux, P., Lopez, P., Lupu, C., Radnoti, G., de Rosnay, P., Rozum, I., Vamborg, F., Villaume,S., Thépau, J.-N., 2020, The ERA5 global reanalysis, Quarterly Journal of the Royal Meteorological Society; v.146, no. 730, pp.1999–2049, https://doi.org/10.1002/qj.3803
    Stevens, Andrew W., Elias, Edwin, Pearson, Stuart, Kaminsky, George M., Ruggiero, Peter R., Weiner, Heather M., and Gelfenbaum, Guy R., 2020, Observations of coastal change and numerical modeling of sediment-transport pathways at the mouth of the Columbia River and its adjacent littoral cell: U.S. Geological Survey, Reston, Virginia.

    Online Links:

    Stevens, Andrew W., Gelfenbaum, Guy, Ruggiero, Peter, and Kaminsky, George M., 2012, Southwest Washington littoral drift restoration-Beach and nearshore morphological monitoring: U.S. Geological Survey, Reston, Virginia.

    Online Links:

    Dowell, David C., Alexander, Curtis R., James, Eric P., Weygandt, Stephen S., Benjamin, Stanley G., Manikin, Geoffrey S., Blake, Benjamin T., Brown, John M., Olsen, Joseph B., Hu, Ming, Smirnova, Tatiana G., Ladwig, Terra, Kenyon, Jaymes S., Ahmadov, Ravan, Turner, David D., Duda, Jeffrey D., and Alcott, Trevor I., 2022, The High-Resolution Rapid Refresh (HRRR): An Hourly Updating Convection-Allowing Forecast Model. Part I: Motivation and System Description.

    Online Links:

    Rasmussen, R.M., Chen, F., Liu, C.H., Ikeda, K., Prein, A., Kim, J., Schneider, T., Dai, A., Gochis, D., Dugger, A., Zhang, Y., Jaye, A., Dudhia, J., He, C., Harrold, M., Xue, L., Chen, S., Newman, A., Dougherty, E., Abolafia-Rosenzweig, R., Lybarger, N.D., Viger, R., Lesmes, D., Skalak, K., Brakebill, J., Cline, D., Dunne, K., Rasmussen, K., and Miguez-Macho, G., 2023, CONUS404: The NCAR–USGS 4-km Long-Term Regional Hydroclimate Reanalysis over the CONUS.

    Online Links:

    Komen, G.J., Hasselmann, S., and Hasselmann, K., 1984, On the Existence of a Fully Developed Wind-Sea Spectrum.

    Online Links:

    Battjes, J., and Janssen, J., 1978, Energy loss and setup due to breaking of random waves..

    Online Links:


How reliable are the data; what problems remain in the data set?

  1. How well have the observations been checked?
    The model predictions of wave parameters were first validated against buoy observations at 4 locations in water depths between 24 and 183 m. Wave parameters at all of the sites were simulated skillfully with maximum root mean square errors of 0.42 m, 2.64 s, and 30.21 deg and average skill scores of 0.97, 0.81, and 0.78, for significant wave heights, peak wave periods, and mean wave directions, respectively. Notably, biases of -10 and -7 degrees were observed in the predicted wave directions for the two northern wave buoys. For files containing wave parameters at the break point (h1_crlc_swan_break_point.nc, h2_crlc_swan_break_point.nc), the automated process to select the break point location occasionally failed, resulting in erroneously deep breaking water depths.
  2. How accurate are the geographic locations?
    A formal accuracy assessment of the horizontal positional information in the data set has either not been conducted or is not applicable.
  3. How accurate are the heights or depths?
    A formal accuracy assessment of the vertical positional information in the data set has either not been conducted or is not applicable.
  4. Where are the gaps in the data? What is missing?
    Small time gaps in the dataset exist when wave parameters used for the model boundaries from the ERA5 analysis (Hershbach and others, 2020) were unavailable. Users are advised to read the metadata for each part of this data release carefully for additional details.
  5. How consistent are the relationships among the observations, including topology?
    All data fall within expected ranges.

How can someone get a copy of the data set?

Are there legal restrictions on access or use of the data?
Access_Constraints no access constraints
Use_Constraints USGS-authored or produced data and information are in the public domain from the U.S. Government and are freely redistributable with proper metadata and source attribution. Please recognize and acknowledge the U.S. Geological Survey as the originator(s) of the dataset and in products derived from these data.
  1. Who distributes the data set? (Distributor 1 of 1)
    U.S. Geological Survey - Coastal and Marine Geoscience Data System
    2885 Mission Street
    Santa Cruz, CA
    USA

    831-427-4747 (voice)
    pcmsc_data@usgs.gov
  2. What's the catalog number I need to order this data set? Modeled wave parameters derived from hindcasts performed with the spectral wave model SWAN, browse graphic showing comparison between modeled and observed wave parameters for CDIP buoy 162, and associated metadata.
  3. What legal disclaimers am I supposed to read?
    Unless otherwise stated, all data, metadata and related materials are considered to satisfy the quality standards relative to the purpose for which the data were collected. Although these data and associated metadata have been reviewed for accuracy and completeness and approved for release by the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS), no warranty expressed or implied is made regarding the display or utility of the data on any other system or for general or scientific purposes, nor shall the act of distribution constitute any such warranty.
  4. How can I download or order the data?
    • Availability in digital form:
      Data format: netCDF file (h1_crlc_swan_15m.nc) containing modeled nearshore wave parameters along the 15 m elevation contour for the h1 hindcast (2014-2023) in format netCDF Size: 536.9
      Network links: https://doi.org/10.5066/P1R9REKP
      Data format: netCDF file (h1_crlc_swan_break_point.nc) containing modeled nearshore wave parameters at the outer edge of the surf zone, or break point for the h1 hindcast (2014-2023) in format netCDF Size: 805.0
      Network links: https://doi.org/10.5066/P1R9REKP
      Data format: netCDF file (h1_crlc_swan_buoys.nc) containing modeled parameters for the locations of observational buoys used for model validation for the h1 hindcast (2014-2023) in format netCDF Size: 10.3
      Network links: https://doi.org/10.5066/P1R9REKP
      Data format: netCDF file (h2_crlc_swan_15m.nc) containing modeled nearshore wave parameters along the 15 m elevation contour for the h2 hindcast (2010-2011) in format netCDF Size: 64.8
      Network links: https://doi.org/10.5066/P1R9REKP
      Data format: netCDF file (h2_crlc_swan_break_point.nc) containing modeled nearshore wave parameters at the outer edge of the surf zone, or break point for the h2 hindcast (2010-2011) in format netCDF Size: 97.2
      Network links: https://doi.org/10.5066/P1R9REKP
      Data format: netCDF file (h2_crlc_swan_buoys.nc) containing modeled parameters for the locations of observational buoys used for model validation for the h2 hindcast (2010-2011) in format netCDF Size: 1.3
      Network links: https://doi.org/10.5066/P1R9REKP
    • Cost to order the data: None


Who wrote the metadata?

Dates:
Last modified: 15-Aug-2024
Metadata author:
PCMSC Science Data Coordinator
U.S. Geological Survey, Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center
2885 Mission Street
Santa Cruz, CA

831-427-4747 (voice)
pcmsc_data@usgs.gov
Metadata standard:
Content Standard for Digital Geospatial Metadata (FGDC-STD-001-1998)

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