Metadata: Identification_Information: Citation: Citation_Information: Originator: Andrew W. Stevens Originator: Kai A. Parker Originator: Sean Vitousek Publication_Date: 20240815 Title: Modeled nearshore wave parameters Geospatial_Data_Presentation_Form: NetCDF files Series_Information: Series_Name: data release Issue_Identification: DOI:10.5066/P1R9REKP Publication_Information: Publication_Place: Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center, Santa Cruz, California Publisher: U.S. Geological Survey Online_Linkage: https://doi.org/10.5066/P1R9REKP Larger_Work_Citation: Citation_Information: Originator: Andrew W. Stevens Originator: Kai A. Parker Originator: Sean Vitousek Publication_Date: 2024 Title: Modeled nearshore wave parameters along the Columbia River littoral cell, Washington and Oregon, 2010-2023 Series_Information: Series_Name: data release Issue_Identification: DOI:10.5066/P1R9REKP Publication_Information: Publication_Place: Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center, Santa Cruz, CA Publisher: U.S. Geological Survey Other_Citation_Details: Suggested Citation: Stevens, A.W., Parker, K.A., Vitousek, S., 2024, Modeled nearshore wave parameters along the Columbia River littoral cell, Washington and Oregon, 2010-2023: U.S. Geological Survey data release, https://doi.org/10.5066/P1R9REKP. Online_Linkage: https://doi.org/10.5066/P1R9REKP Description: Abstract: This portion of the USGS data release contains simulated nearshore wave parameters derived from a stand-alone spectral wave model of the Columbia River littoral cell, Washington and Oregon. The model output includes significant wave heights, peak wave periods, mean wave directions, and water depths for a series of 221 shore normal transects that extended from the coastline to the -15 m NAVD88 elevation (about 16.5 m average water depth). Data are provided at the seaward extent of each transect as well as at the location of the break point, or location just outside the surf zone, which varied dynamically based on the local bathymetry and wave conditions. Additional data are provided at four locations corresponding to the locations of buoy observations used to validate the model application. The data are derived from two hindcasts solved at hourly intervals between 1) August 2014 to September 2023 (h1), and 2) July 2010 to August 2011 (h2). The data from both hindcasts were compiled into netCDF files for the nearshore and buoy locations for distribution. Purpose: The wave model application was constructed to investigate spatial and temporal variability in nearshore wave dynamics along the Columbia River littoral cell. The purpose of this data release is to provide researchers, engineers, and other potential users with model input files that can be used to run the SWAN wave model using the Delft3D4 modeling system. Supplemental_Information: Any use of trade, product, or firm names is for descriptive purposes only and does not imply endorsement by the U.S. Government. Time_Period_of_Content: Time_Period_Information: Range_of_Dates/Times: Beginning_Date: 20100711 Ending_Date: 20230831 Currentness_Reference: ground condition at time data were collected Status: Progress: Complete Maintenance_and_Update_Frequency: None Planned Spatial_Domain: Bounding_Coordinates: West_Bounding_Coordinate: -124.739000 East_Bounding_Coordinate: -123.949895 North_Bounding_Coordinate: 47.352000 South_Bounding_Coordinate: 46.109635 Keywords: Theme: Theme_Keyword_Thesaurus: USGS Metadata Identifier Theme_Keyword: USGS:ceb8d052-88ed-4e37-803f-dadb3bcb20be Theme: Theme_Keyword_Thesaurus: Data Categories for Marine Planning Theme_Keyword: Predictions Theme: Theme_Keyword_Thesaurus: USGS Thesaurus Theme_Keyword: mathematical simulation Theme_Keyword: ocean waves Theme: Theme_Keyword_Thesaurus: Marine Realms Information Bank (MRIB) keywords Theme_Keyword: numerical modeling Theme_Keyword: waves Theme_Keyword: coastal processes Theme: Theme_Keyword_Thesaurus: None Theme_Keyword: U.S. Geological Survey Theme_Keyword: USGS Theme_Keyword: Coastal and Marine Hazards and Resources Program Theme_Keyword: CMHRP Theme_Keyword: Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center Theme_Keyword: PCMSC Theme_Keyword: Delft3D Theme: Theme_Keyword_Thesaurus: ISO 19115 Topic Category Theme_Keyword: geoscientificInformation Place: Place_Keyword_Thesaurus: Geographic Names Information System (GNIS) Place_Keyword: Pacific Ocean Place_Keyword: Columbia River Place_Keyword: Grays Harbor Place_Keyword: State of Washington Place_Keyword: State of Oregon Access_Constraints: no access constraints Use_Constraints: USGS-authored or produced data and information are in the public domain from the U.S. Government and are freely redistributable with proper metadata and source attribution. Please recognize and acknowledge the U.S. Geological Survey as the originator(s) of the dataset and in products derived from these data. Point_of_Contact: Contact_Information: Contact_Person_Primary: Contact_Person: PCMSC Science Data Coordinator Contact_Organization: U.S. Geological Survey, Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center Contact_Address: Address_Type: mailing and physical Address: 2885 Mission Street City: Santa Cruz State_or_Province: CA Postal_Code: 95060-5792 Country: USA Contact_Voice_Telephone: 831-427-4747 Contact_Electronic_Mail_Address: pcmsc_data@usgs.gov Browse_Graphic: Browse_Graphic_File_Name: crlc_swan_model_validation_example.png Browse_Graphic_File_Description: A, Time-series of modeled and observed signficant wave height at the location of CDIP buoy 162 (Clatsop Spit), and scatter plots of B, modeled and observed significant wave heights, C, peak wave periods, and D, mean wave directions. Browse_Graphic_File_Type: PNG Native_Data_Set_Environment: Microsoft Windows 10 running Delft3D-Wave Cross_Reference: Citation_Information: Originator: Deltares Publication_Date: 2024 Title: Delft3D-FLOW User Manual (version 4.05) Publication_Information: Publication_Place: Delft, Netherlands Publisher: Deltares Online_Linkage: https://content.oss.deltares.nl/delft3d4/Delft3D-FLOW_User_Manual.pdf Cross_Reference: Citation_Information: Originator: Hans Hersbach Originator: Bill Bell Originator: Paul Berrisford Originator: Shoji Hirahara Originator: András Horányi Originator: Joaquín Muñoz-Sabater Originator: Julien Nicolas Originator: Carole Peubey Originator: Raluca Radu Originator: Dinand Schepers Originator: Adrian Simmons Originator: Cornel Soci Originator: Saleh Abdalla Originator: Xavier Abellan Originator: Gianpaolo Balsamo Originator: Peter Bechtold Originator: Gionata Biavati Originator: Jean Bidlot Originator: Massimo Bonavita Originator: Giovanna De Chiara Originator: Per Dahlgren Originator: Dick Dee Originator: Michail Diamantakis Originator: Rossana Dragani Originator: Johannes Flemming Originator: Richard Forbes Originator: Manuel Fuentes Originator: Alan Geer Originator: Leo Haimberger Originator: Sean Healy Originator: Robin J Hogan Originator: Elías Hólm Originator: Marta Janisková Originator: Sarah Keely Originator: Patrick Laloyaux Originator: Philippe Lopez Originator: Cristina Lupu Originator: Gabor Radnoti Originator: Patricia de Rosnay Originator: Iryna Rozum Originator: Freja Vamborg Originator: Sebastien Villaume Originator: Jean-Noël Thépaut Publication_Date: 2020 Title: The ERA5 global reanalysis Other_Citation_Details: Hersbach, H., Bell, B., Berrisford, P., Hirahara, S., Horányi A., Muñoz-Sabater, J., Nicolas, J., Peubey, C., Radu, R., Schepers, D., Simmons, A., Soci, C., Abdalla, S., Abellan, X., Balsamo, G., Bechtold, P., Biavati, G., Bidlot, J., Bonavita, M., De Chiara, G., Dahlgren, P., Dee, D., Diamantakis, M., Dragani, R., Flemming, J., Forbes, R., Fuentes, M., Geer, A., Haimberger, L., Healy, S., Hogan, R.J., Hólm, E., Janisková, M., Keeley, S., Laloyaux, P., Lopez, P., Lupu, C., Radnoti, G., de Rosnay, P., Rozum, I., Vamborg, F., Villaume,S., Thépau, J.-N., 2020, The ERA5 global reanalysis, Quarterly Journal of the Royal Meteorological Society; v.146, no. 730, pp.1999–2049, https://doi.org/10.1002/qj.3803 Online_Linkage: https://doi.org/10.1002/qj.3803 Cross_Reference: Citation_Information: Originator: Andrew W. Stevens Originator: Edwin Elias Originator: Stuart Pearson Originator: George M. Kaminsky Originator: Peter R. Ruggiero Originator: Heather M. Weiner Originator: Guy R. Gelfenbaum Publication_Date: 2020 Title: Observations of coastal change and numerical modeling of sediment-transport pathways at the mouth of the Columbia River and its adjacent littoral cell Publication_Information: Publication_Place: Reston, Virginia Publisher: U.S. Geological Survey Online_Linkage: https://doi.org//10.3133/ofr20201045 Cross_Reference: Citation_Information: Originator: Andrew W. Stevens Originator: Guy Gelfenbaum Originator: Peter Ruggiero Originator: George M. Kaminsky Publication_Date: 2012 Title: Southwest Washington littoral drift restoration-Beach and nearshore morphological monitoring Publication_Information: Publication_Place: Reston, Virginia Publisher: U.S. Geological Survey Online_Linkage: https://doi.org/10.3133/ofr20121175 Cross_Reference: Citation_Information: Originator: David C. Dowell Originator: Curtis R. Alexander Originator: Eric P. James Originator: Stephen S. Weygandt Originator: Stanley G. Benjamin Originator: Geoffrey S. Manikin Originator: Benjamin T. Blake Originator: John M. Brown Originator: Joseph B. Olsen Originator: Ming Hu Originator: Tatiana G. Smirnova Originator: Terra Ladwig Originator: Jaymes S. Kenyon Originator: Ravan Ahmadov Originator: David D. Turner Originator: Jeffrey D. Duda Originator: Trevor I. Alcott Publication_Date: 2022 Title: The High-Resolution Rapid Refresh (HRRR): An Hourly Updating Convection-Allowing Forecast Model. Part I: Motivation and System Description Online_Linkage: https://doi.org/10.1175/WAF-D-21-0151.1 Cross_Reference: Citation_Information: Originator: R.M. Rasmussen Originator: F. Chen Originator: C.H. Liu Originator: K. Ikeda Originator: A. Prein Originator: J. Kim Originator: T. Schneider Originator: A. Dai Originator: D. Gochis Originator: A. Dugger Originator: Y. Zhang Originator: A. Jaye Originator: J. Dudhia Originator: C. He Originator: M. Harrold Originator: L. Xue Originator: S. Chen Originator: A. Newman Originator: E. Dougherty Originator: R. Abolafia-Rosenzweig Originator: N.D. Lybarger Originator: R. Viger Originator: D. Lesmes Originator: K. Skalak Originator: J. Brakebill Originator: D. Cline Originator: K. Dunne Originator: K. Rasmussen Originator: G. Miguez-Macho Publication_Date: 2023 Title: CONUS404: The NCAR–USGS 4-km Long-Term Regional Hydroclimate Reanalysis over the CONUS Online_Linkage: https://doi.org/10.1175/BAMS-D-21-0326.1 Cross_Reference: Citation_Information: Originator: G.J. Komen Originator: S. Hasselmann Originator: K. Hasselmann Publication_Date: 1984 Title: On the Existence of a Fully Developed Wind-Sea Spectrum Online_Linkage: https://doi.org/10.1175/1520-0485(1984)014<1271:OTEOAF>2.0.CO;2 Cross_Reference: Citation_Information: Originator: J. Battjes Originator: J. Janssen Publication_Date: 1978 Title: Energy loss and setup due to breaking of random waves. Online_Linkage: https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v16.32 Data_Quality_Information: Attribute_Accuracy: Attribute_Accuracy_Report: The model predictions of wave parameters were first validated against buoy observations at 4 locations in water depths between 24 and 183 m. Wave parameters at all of the sites were simulated skillfully with maximum root mean square errors of 0.42 m, 2.64 s, and 30.21 deg and average skill scores of 0.97, 0.81, and 0.78, for significant wave heights, peak wave periods, and mean wave directions, respectively. Notably, biases of -10 and -7 degrees were observed in the predicted wave directions for the two northern wave buoys. For files containing wave parameters at the break point (h1_crlc_swan_break_point.nc, h2_crlc_swan_break_point.nc), the automated process to select the break point location occasionally failed, resulting in erroneously deep breaking water depths. Logical_Consistency_Report: All data fall within expected ranges. Completeness_Report: Small time gaps in the dataset exist when wave parameters used for the model boundaries from the ERA5 analysis (Hershbach and others, 2020) were unavailable. Users are advised to read the metadata for each part of this data release carefully for additional details. Positional_Accuracy: Horizontal_Positional_Accuracy: Horizontal_Positional_Accuracy_Report: A formal accuracy assessment of the horizontal positional information in the data set has either not been conducted or is not applicable. Vertical_Positional_Accuracy: Vertical_Positional_Accuracy_Report: A formal accuracy assessment of the vertical positional information in the data set has either not been conducted or is not applicable. Lineage: Process_Step: Process_Description: The spectral wave model SWAN was applied using the Delft3D-Wave modeling system (Deltares, 2024) to simulate wave transformation and dynamics from offshore of the continental shelf to the coastline. The model application consisted of nested grids with resolutions varying between 750 m for the largest grid to about 80 m for the two detailed grids that cover the Grays Harbor and Columbia River inlets. Model bathymetry was derived from recent data sets collected by the USGS, NOAA, and USACE between 2004 and 2020 as described in Stevens and others (2020). Wave energy was discretized into 24 frequency bins between 0.03 and 1 Hz and 72 directional bins. The model was forced on the open lateral boundaries with bulk wave parameters obtained from the ERA5 reanalysis (Herschbach and others, 2023) and on the free surface with space- and time-varying wind vectors from the High Resolution Rapid Refresh (Dowell and others, 2022) operational forecast model with roughly 3 km spatial resolution. Wind growth and white-capping were based on Komen (1984). The JONSWAP bottom friction model with a coefficient of 0.038 m2s-3 and wave breaking based on Battjes and Jannsen (1978) with default settings (alpha = 1, gamma =0.73) were used. SWAN was run as a stand-alone wave model neglecting the effects of wave current interaction. Convergence criteria were set to 98 percent of cells and a maximum of 15 iterations during the simulations. Process_Date: 20230105 Process_Step: Process_Description: The forcing conditions were updated and wave dynamics were solved within the model domains at 1-hr intervals in stationary mode between 2014 and 2023 (h1). A second hindcast was run between July 2010 to September 2011 (h2) to simulate seasonal variations in wave climate during the Southwest Washington Littoral Drift Restoration (SWLDR) beach nourishment and monitoring study (Stevens and others, 2012). The HRRR wind forcing was not available for this time period, so an alternative downscaled wind product was used (CONUS404, Rasmussen and others, 2023). CONUS404 is a high-resolution meteorological reanalysis created by downscaling ERA5 data to a 4-km spatial resolution over the continental United States using the Weather Research and Forecasting (WRF) Model. Process_Date: 20240226 Process_Step: Process_Description: A series of 221 shore normal transects were defined throughout the study area that extended from the coastline to the -15 m NAVD88 elevation (about 16.5 m average water depth). For each hourly time step in the wave hindcast simulations, the estimated fraction of breaking waves was interpolated onto transect locations with a cross-shore resolution of 50 m. The location of the break point, or location just outside the surf zone, varied dynamically based on the local bathymetry and wave conditions. A threshold of 0.01 of the fraction of waves breaking was used to define the time- and space-varying break point along each transect. Model output parameters including significant wave height, peak wave period, mean wave direction, and water depth at this location were extracted for each time step and transect. Process_Date: 20240415 Process_Step: Process_Description: Modeled wave parameters were compiled into netCDF files for distribution. Process_Date: 20240430 Spatial_Data_Organization_Information: Indirect_Spatial_Reference: Data were generated within a numerical model scheme. Refer to self-contained NetCDF files for location information. Spatial_Reference_Information: Horizontal_Coordinate_System_Definition: Planar: Grid_Coordinate_System: Grid_Coordinate_System_Name: Universal Transverse Mercator Universal_Transverse_Mercator: UTM_Zone_Number: 10 Transverse_Mercator: Scale_Factor_at_Central_Meridian: 0.9996 Longitude_of_Central_Meridian: -123.0 Latitude_of_Projection_Origin: 0.0 False_Easting: 500000.0 False_Northing: 0.0 Planar_Coordinate_Information: Planar_Coordinate_Encoding_Method: row and column Coordinate_Representation: Abscissa_Resolution: 83.3 Ordinate_Resolution: 83.3 Planar_Distance_Units: Meter Geodetic_Model: Horizontal_Datum_Name: D_North_American_1983 Ellipsoid_Name: GRS_1980 Semi-major_Axis: 6378137.0 Denominator_of_Flattening_Ratio: 298.257222101 Vertical_Coordinate_System_Definition: Altitude_System_Definition: Altitude_Datum_Name: North American Vertical Datum of 1988 Altitude_Resolution: 0.01 Altitude_Distance_Units: meters Altitude_Encoding_Method: Explicit elevation coordinate included with horizontal coordinates Entity_and_Attribute_Information: Overview_Description: Entity_and_Attribute_Overview: netCDF files are self-contained and attribute information may be found in the header of the file itself. Attributes included in each file are station identifier (station_id), latitude, longitude, time, depth, significant wave heights (hsig), peak wave periods (tpeak), and mean wave direction(mwd). Station identifiers are numbered sequentially from south to north. Entity_and_Attribute_Detail_Citation: U.S. Geological Survey Distribution_Information: Distributor: Contact_Information: Contact_Organization_Primary: Contact_Organization: U.S. Geological Survey - Coastal and Marine Geoscience Data System Contact_Address: Address_Type: Mailing and Physical Address Address: 2885 Mission Street City: Santa Cruz State_or_Province: CA Postal_Code: 95060 Country: USA Contact_Voice_Telephone: 831-427-4747 Contact_Electronic_Mail_Address: pcmsc_data@usgs.gov Resource_Description: Modeled wave parameters derived from hindcasts performed with the spectral wave model SWAN, browse graphic showing comparison between modeled and observed wave parameters for CDIP buoy 162, and associated metadata. Distribution_Liability: Unless otherwise stated, all data, metadata and related materials are considered to satisfy the quality standards relative to the purpose for which the data were collected. Although these data and associated metadata have been reviewed for accuracy and completeness and approved for release by the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS), no warranty expressed or implied is made regarding the display or utility of the data on any other system or for general or scientific purposes, nor shall the act of distribution constitute any such warranty. Standard_Order_Process: Digital_Form: Digital_Transfer_Information: Format_Name: netCDF Format_Information_Content: netCDF file (h1_crlc_swan_15m.nc) containing modeled nearshore wave parameters along the 15 m elevation contour for the h1 hindcast (2014-2023) File_Decompression_Technique: none Transfer_Size: 536.9 Digital_Transfer_Option: Online_Option: Computer_Contact_Information: Network_Address: Network_Resource_Name: https://doi.org/10.5066/P1R9REKP Access_Instructions: Data may be accessed and downloaded via the Internet by using the Network_Resource_Name link and scrolling to the Simulation Data section. Digital_Form: Digital_Transfer_Information: Format_Name: netCDF Format_Information_Content: netCDF file (h1_crlc_swan_break_point.nc) containing modeled nearshore wave parameters at the outer edge of the surf zone, or break point for the h1 hindcast (2014-2023) File_Decompression_Technique: none Transfer_Size: 805.0 Digital_Transfer_Option: Online_Option: Computer_Contact_Information: Network_Address: Network_Resource_Name: https://doi.org/10.5066/P1R9REKP Access_Instructions: Data may be accessed and downloaded via the Internet by using the Network_Resource_Name link and scrolling to the Simulation Data section. Digital_Form: Digital_Transfer_Information: Format_Name: netCDF Format_Information_Content: netCDF file (h1_crlc_swan_buoys.nc) containing modeled parameters for the locations of observational buoys used for model validation for the h1 hindcast (2014-2023) File_Decompression_Technique: none Transfer_Size: 10.3 Digital_Transfer_Option: Online_Option: Computer_Contact_Information: Network_Address: Network_Resource_Name: https://doi.org/10.5066/P1R9REKP Access_Instructions: Data may be accessed and downloaded via the Internet by using the Network_Resource_Name link and scrolling to the Simulation Data section. Digital_Form: Digital_Transfer_Information: Format_Name: netCDF Format_Information_Content: netCDF file (h2_crlc_swan_15m.nc) containing modeled nearshore wave parameters along the 15 m elevation contour for the h2 hindcast (2010-2011) File_Decompression_Technique: none Transfer_Size: 64.8 Digital_Transfer_Option: Online_Option: Computer_Contact_Information: Network_Address: Network_Resource_Name: https://doi.org/10.5066/P1R9REKP Access_Instructions: Data may be accessed and downloaded via the Internet by using the Network_Resource_Name link and scrolling to the Simulation Data section. Digital_Form: Digital_Transfer_Information: Format_Name: netCDF Format_Information_Content: netCDF file (h2_crlc_swan_break_point.nc) containing modeled nearshore wave parameters at the outer edge of the surf zone, or break point for the h2 hindcast (2010-2011) File_Decompression_Technique: none Transfer_Size: 97.2 Digital_Transfer_Option: Online_Option: Computer_Contact_Information: Network_Address: Network_Resource_Name: https://doi.org/10.5066/P1R9REKP Access_Instructions: Data may be accessed and downloaded via the Internet by using the Network_Resource_Name link and scrolling to the Simulation Data section. Digital_Form: Digital_Transfer_Information: Format_Name: netCDF Format_Information_Content: netCDF file (h2_crlc_swan_buoys.nc) containing modeled parameters for the locations of observational buoys used for model validation for the h2 hindcast (2010-2011) File_Decompression_Technique: none Transfer_Size: 1.3 Digital_Transfer_Option: Online_Option: Computer_Contact_Information: Network_Address: Network_Resource_Name: https://doi.org/10.5066/P1R9REKP Access_Instructions: Data may be accessed and downloaded via the Internet by using the Network_Resource_Name link and scrolling to the Simulation Data section. Fees: None Metadata_Reference_Information: Metadata_Date: 20240815 Metadata_Contact: Contact_Information: Contact_Person_Primary: Contact_Person: PCMSC Science Data Coordinator Contact_Organization: U.S. Geological Survey, Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center Contact_Address: Address_Type: mailing and physical Address: 2885 Mission Street City: Santa Cruz State_or_Province: CA Postal_Code: 95060 Contact_Voice_Telephone: 831-427-4747 Contact_Electronic_Mail_Address: pcmsc_data@usgs.gov Metadata_Standard_Name: Content Standard for Digital Geospatial Metadata Metadata_Standard_Version: FGDC-STD-001-1998