Ellen Quataert
Curt D. Storlazzi
Ap van Dongeren
Robert McCall
20200508
Model parameter input files to compare wave-averaged versus wave-resolving XBeach coastal flooding models for coral reef-lined coasts
tab-delimited text files
data release
DOI:10.5066/P9XUI9Y1
Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center, Santa Cruz, California
U.S. Geological Survey
https://doi.org/10.5066/P9XUI9Y1
https://www.sciencebase.gov/catalog/item/5e59692ee4b01d50924c5370
This data release includes the XBeach input data files used to evaluate the importance of explicitly modeling sea-swell waves for runup. This was examined using a 2D XBeach short wave-averaged (surfbeat, XB-SB) and a wave-resolving (non-hydrostatic, XB-NH) model of Roi-Namur Island on Kwajalein Atoll in the Republic of Marshall Islands. Results show that explicitly modelling the sea-swell component (using XB-NH) provides a better approximation of the observed runup than XB-SB (which only models the time-variation of the sea-swell wave height), despite good model performance of both models on reef flat water levels and wave heights. However, both models under-predict runup peaks. The difference between XB-SB and XB-NH increases for more extreme wave events and higher sea levels, as XB-NH resolves individual waves and therefore captures SS-wave motions in runup. However, for even larger forcing conditions with offshore wave heights of 6 m, the island is flooded in both XB-SB and XB-NH computations, regardless of the sea-swell wave energy contribution. In such cases, XB-SB would be adequate to model flooding depths and extents on the island while requiring 4-5 times less computational effort.
These input files accompany the modeling for following publication: Quataert, E., Storlazzi, C., van Dongeren, A., and McCall, R., 2020, The importance of explicitly modeling sea-swell waves for runup on reef-lined coasts: Coastal Engineering, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2020.103704
The objective of this study is to evaluate the importance of directionally-spread sea-swell wave motions on wave runup at reef-lined coasts typically characterized by steep beaches, using a 2D XBeach short-wave averaged model (surfbeat, XB-SB, which does not include sea-swell motions) and a wave-resolving model (non-hydrostatic, XB-NH, which includes sea-swell motions) in 2D mode. Our study uses field observations of water levels, wave heights, and wave runup to drive and evaluate both models, which are subsequently used to determine the effect sea-level rise and extreme wave conditions on wave runup and its components in coral reef environments.
Any use of trade, product, or firm names is for descriptive purposes only and does not imply endorsement by the U.S. Government.
2020
publication date
None planned
167.461
167.490
9.406
9.388
USGS Metadata Identifier
USGS:5e59692ee4b01d50924c5370
ISO 19115 Topic Category
geoscientificInformation
oceans
Data Categories for Marine Planning
water column features
USGS Thesaurus
hazards
coastal processes
Marine Realms Information Bank (MRIB) keywords
coral reefs
reef
waves
flooding
coastal processes
numerical modeling
None
water level
U.S. Geological Survey
USGS
Coastal and Marine Hazards and Resources Program
CMHRP
Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center
PCMSC
Geographic Names Information System (GNIS)
Roi-Namur
Kwajalein Atoll
Republic of the Marshall Islands
none
USGS-authored or produced data and information are in the public domain from the U.S. Government and are freely redistributable with proper metadata and source attribution. Please recognize and acknowledge Deltares, the U.S. Geological Survey, and TU Delft as the originators of the dataset and in products derived from these data.
U.S. Geological Survey, Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center
PCMSC Science Data Coordinator
mailing and physical
2885 Mission Street
Santa Cruz
CA
95060
831-427-4747
pcmsc_data@usgs.gov
Ellen Quataert
Curt D. Storlazzi
Ap van Dongeren
Robert McCall
2020
The importance of explicitly modelling sea-swell waves for runup on reef-lined coasts
Journal article
Coastal Engineering
Washington, DC
Elsevier
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2020.103704
See Quataert and others (2020, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2020.103704) for an in-depth discussion of accuracy.
No formal logical accuracy tests were conducted. See Quataert and others (2020, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2020.103704) for additional information.
Dataset is considered complete for the information presented, as described in the abstract. Users are advised to read the rest of the metadata record carefully for additional details.
No formal positional accuracy tests were conducted, nor are they applicable
No formal positional accuracy tests were conducted, nor are they applicable
2D XBeach short wave-averaged (surfbeat, XB-SB) and wave-resolving (non-hydrostatic, XB-NH) model input data files for Roi-Namur Island on Kwajalein Atoll in the Republic of Marshall Islands are provided. Field observations on water levels, wave heights, and wave runup were used to drive and evaluate both models, which were subsequently used to determine the effect of sea-level rise and extreme wave conditions on wave runup and its components. For an in-depth discussion of model processing, see Quataert and others (2020, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2020.103704).
2020
Edited metadata to add keywords section with USGS persistent identifier as theme keyword. No data were changed.
20201019
U.S. Geological Survey
VeeAnn A. Cross
Marine Geologist
Mailing and Physical
384 Woods Hole Road
Woods Hole
MA
02543-1598
508-548-8700 x2251
508-457-2310
vatnipp@usgs.gov
Performed minor edits to the metadata to correct typos. No data were changed.
20211013
U.S. Geological Survey
Susan A. Cochran
Geologist
Mailing and Physical
2885 Mission Street
Santa Cruz
CA
95060
831-460-7545
scochran@usgs.gov
The model results presented are for Roi-Namur, Kwajalein Atoll, Republic of the Marshall Islands.
Tab-delimited text files are self-contained and attribute information may be found in the XBeach User Manual at https://oss.deltares.nl/web/xbeach/.
The entity and attribute information was generated by the individual and/or agency identified as the originator of the data set. Please review the rest of the metadata record for additional details and information.
U.S. Geological Survey - ScienceBase
Mailing and Physical
Denver Federal Center, Building 810, Mail Stop 302
Denver
CO
80225
1-888-275-8747
sciencebase@usgs.gov
Downloadable data in tab-delimited text format.
Unless otherwise stated, all data, metadata and related materials are considered to satisfy the quality standards relative to the purpose for which the data were collected. Although these data and associated metadata have been reviewed for accuracy and completeness and approved for release by the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS), no warranty expressed or implied is made regarding the display or utility of the data on any other system or for general or scientific purposes, nor shall the act of distribution constitute any such warranty.
text and grid files
MATLAB R2020
Zip file contains XBeach numerical model data in tab-delimited text format.
No compression applied
9.03
https://www.sciencebase.gov/catalog/file/get/5e59692ee4b01d50924c5370
https://doi.org/10.5066/P9XUI9Y1
Files can be downloaded using the Network_Resource_Name links. The first link is a direct link to download the zipped file of input parameters and metadata. The second link points to a landing page for the data release.
None.
20211013
U.S. Geological Survey, Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center
PCMSC Science Data Coordinator
mailing and physical
2885 Mission Street
Santa Cruz
CA
95060
831-427-4747
pcmsc_data@usgs.gov
Content Standard for Digital Geospatial Metadata
FGDC-STD-001-1998