Metadata:
Identification_Information:
Citation:
Citation_Information:
Originator: Michael Itzkin
Originator: Margaret L. Palmsten
Originator: Mark L. Buckley
Publication_Date: 20250402
Title: Dissipative SWASH Profiles for Assessing the Role of Bar Morphology on Wave Runup
Geospatial_Data_Presentation_Form: tabular digital data
Larger_Work_Citation:
Citation_Information:
Originator: Michael Itzkin
Originator: Stefano Conti
Originator: Margaret L. Palmsten
Originator: Kristen D. Splinter
Originator: Mark L. Buckley
Publication_Date: 20250402
Title: The Relative Role of Bar Morphology on Wave Runup and Hydrodynamics: Model Inputs
Series_Information:
Series_Name: U.S. Geological Survey data release
Issue_Identification: doi:10.5066/P137WIC8
Publication_Information:
Publication_Place: St. Petersburg, FL
Publisher: U.S. Geological Survey - St. Petersburg Coastal and Marine Science Center
Online_Linkage: https://doi.org/10.5066/P137WIC8
Description:
Abstract: In 2023, Conti and others (2024a) ran a series of flume experiments to investigate the effect of moisture content on dune erosion. In this study, the flume setup was used from Conti and others (2024b) to assess the role of offshore sandbar morphology on regulating wave runup at the shoreline and hydrodynamics in the nearshore. A hindcast of the Conti and others (2024a) flume experiment was performed using the Simulating Waves Till Shore (SWASH; Zijlema and others, 2011). A series of synthetic flume profiles were then derived with modified bar morphologies and used as a boundary condition for additional SWASH simulations. SWASH requires a beach profile as a boundary condition and wave forcing conditions. The JONSWAP spectrum from the physical flume experiment (Conti and others, 2024b) was used to force the model on the profiles in this dataset. This data release contains two sets (reflective and dissipative) of synthesized barred beach profiles based on conditions in the University of New South Wales Water Research Laboratory's 0.9-meter (m) wave flume. Each set of profiles contain a barless version to allow comparisons between barred and planar beaches.
Purpose: These data were generated to run SWASH simulations analyzing how different sandbar morphologies affect nearshore hydrodynamics and wave runup. The data file, dissipative_profiles.csv, is a comma-separated values (csv) file containing the cross-shore (X) and elevation values for each profile.
Time_Period_of_Content:
Time_Period_Information:
Single_Date/Time:
Calendar_Date: 20250402
Currentness_Reference: publication date
Status:
Progress: Complete
Maintenance_and_Update_Frequency: None planned
Spatial_Domain:
Bounding_Coordinates:
West_Bounding_Coordinate: 151.256639
East_Bounding_Coordinate: 151.256639
North_Bounding_Coordinate: -33.780667
South_Bounding_Coordinate: -33.780667
Keywords:
Theme:
Theme_Keyword_Thesaurus: USGS Metadata Identifier
Theme_Keyword: USGS:7c511136-7ead-4bf9-ad91-df80970e34ee
Theme:
Theme_Keyword_Thesaurus: ISO 19115 Topic Category
Theme_Keyword: oceans
Theme:
Theme_Keyword_Thesaurus: USGS Thesaurus
Theme_Keyword: hydrographic datasets
Theme_Keyword: ocean waves
Theme_Keyword: hazards
Theme_Keyword: ocean processes
Theme:
Theme_Keyword_Thesaurus: None
Theme_Keyword: U.S. Geological Survey
Theme_Keyword: USGS
Theme_Keyword: St. Petersburg Coastal and Marine Science Center
Theme_Keyword: SPCMSC
Place:
Place_Keyword_Thesaurus: Common Geographic Areas
Place_Keyword: Australia
Access_Constraints: No access constraints. Please see 'Distribution Information' for details.
Use_Constraints: These data are marked with a Creative Common CC0 1.0 Universal License. These data are in the public domain and do not have any use constraints. Users are advised to read the dataset's metadata thoroughly to understand appropriate use and data limitations.
Point_of_Contact:
Contact_Information:
Contact_Organization_Primary:
Contact_Organization: U.S. Geological Survey - St. Petersburg Coastal and Marine Science Center
Contact_Person: Michael Itzkin
Contact_Position: Research Geologist
Contact_Address:
Address_Type: Mailing and physical
Address: 600 4th Street South
City: St. Petersburg
State_or_Province: FL
Postal_Code: 33701
Country: United States
Contact_Voice_Telephone: 727-502-8131
Contact_Electronic_Mail_Address: mitzkin@usgs.gov
Data_Set_Credit: This dataset was created in collaboration between the U.S. Geological Survey and the University of New South Wales.
Native_Data_Set_Environment: Environment as of Metadata Creation: Microsoft Windows 11 Enterprise version 23H2; Microsoft Excel version 2402; SWASH version 9.01A.
Cross_Reference:
Citation_Information:
Originator: Conti, S., Splinter, K.D., Booth, E., Djadjiguna, D., and Turner, I.L.
Publication_Date: 20241001
Title: Observations on the role of internal sand moisture dynamics in wave-driven dune face erosion
Series_Information:
Series_Name: Geomorphology
Issue_Identification: Volume 462
Other_Citation_Details: 2024a
Online_Linkage: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.geomorph.2024.109331
Cross_Reference:
Citation_Information:
Originator: Zijlema, M., Stelling, G., and Smit, P.
Publication_Date: 20110531
Title: SWASH: An operational public domain code for simulating wave fields and rapidly varied flows in coastal waters
Series_Information:
Series_Name: Coastal Engineering
Issue_Identification: Volume 58, Issue 10
Other_Citation_Details: Pages 992-1012
Online_Linkage: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2011.05.015
Cross_Reference:
Citation_Information:
Originator: Stephens, S.A., Coco, G., and Bryan, K.R.
Publication_Date: 20101020
Title: Numerical Simulations of Wave Setup over Barred Beach Profiles: Implications for Predictability
Series_Information:
Series_Name: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Issue_Identification: Volume 137, Issue 4
Online_Linkage: https://doi.org/10.1061/(ASCE)WW.1943-5460.0000076
Cross_Reference:
Citation_Information:
Originator: Ruessink, B.G., Wijnberg, K.M., Holman, R.A., Kuriyama, Y., and Van Enckevort, I.M.J.
Publication_Date: 20030805
Title: Intersite Comparison of Interannual Nearshore Bar Behavior
Series_Information:
Series_Name: Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans
Issue_Identification: Volume 108, Issue C8
Online_Linkage: https://doi.org/10.1029/2002JC001505
Data_Quality_Information:
Logical_Consistency_Report: The 217 synthetic dissipative beach profiles are provided with a cross-shore spacing (dx) of 0.04 m.
Completeness_Report: These are the complete model inputs for the dissipative SWASH simulations. This dataset is considered complete for the information presented, as described in the abstract section. Users are advised to read the rest of the metadata record carefully for additional details.
Positional_Accuracy:
Horizontal_Positional_Accuracy:
Horizontal_Positional_Accuracy_Report: Horizontal positions are on a local coordinate system with an accuracy of 25 millimeters (mm).
Vertical_Positional_Accuracy:
Vertical_Positional_Accuracy_Report: Vertical positions are on a local coordinate system with an accuracy of 25 mm.
Lineage:
Source_Information:
Source_Citation:
Citation_Information:
Originator: Conti, S., Splinter, K., Booth, E., Djadjiguna, D., and Turner, I.L.
Publication_Date: 20240320
Title: ARC - dune erosion experiment UNSW - Conti, Splinter, Booth, Djadjiguna, Turner
Edition: 1.0
Geospatial_Data_Presentation_Form: tabular digital data and video
Publication_Information:
Publication_Place: Sydney NSW, Australia
Publisher: University of New South Wales
Online_Linkage: https://doi.org/10.17632/mbyctv39mr.1
Type_of_Source_Media: .txt and .mp4
Source_Time_Period_of_Content:
Time_Period_Information:
Single_Date/Time:
Calendar_Date: 20240320
Source_Currentness_Reference: publication date
Source_Citation_Abbreviation: Conti and others (2024b)
Source_Contribution: The "Dune and Foreshore Profile Data" and the "Bathymetric Data" files available in this data release were used to develop the synthetic profiles used in this dataset as well as to provide an input profile for the SWASH hindcast that was used for model validation.
Process_Step:
Process_Description: The initial beach profile found in Conti and others (2024b) was scanned using a Sensor Intelligence® SICK LMS111 LiDAR sensor. The profiles in this dataset were then created by replacing the subaqueous profile with a synthetic profile defined using the piecewise relationships for barred profiles in Stephens and others (2010) and following the relationship between bar size and depth described in Russeink and others (2003). The subaerial portion of the profile was created by extending a linear profile from the trough of the bar through the shoreline and up to an elevation of 1.35 meters to match the initial profile elevation. The naming convention for the bars is 'BAR{position}{width}L{height}' where {position} increases offshore from 14 to 49 (1.4 meters from the shoreline to 4.9 meters from the shoreline), {height} increases from SL to 0L to B1 to B2 to B3, and {width} increases from S2 to S1 to L0 to B1 to B2. 216 profiles that contain a sandbar were produced by repeating the above methodology for all combinations of bar positions, bar widths, and bar heights. An additional, barless, profile was made using an exponential curve for the subaqueous portion of the profile.
Source_Used_Citation_Abbreviation: Conti and others (2024b)
Process_Date: 2024
Source_Produced_Citation_Abbreviation: disspative_profiles.csv
Process_Contact:
Contact_Information:
Contact_Person_Primary:
Contact_Person: Michael Itzkin
Contact_Organization: U.S. Geological Survey - St. Petersburg Coastal and Marine Science Center
Contact_Position: Research Geologist
Contact_Address:
Address_Type: mailing and physical
Address: 600 4th Street South
City: St. Petersburg
State_or_Province: FL
Postal_Code: 33701
Country: United States
Contact_Voice_Telephone: 727-502-8131
Contact_Electronic_Mail_Address: mitzkin@usgs.gov
Entity_and_Attribute_Information:
Detailed_Description:
Entity_Type:
Entity_Type_Label: dissipative_profiles.csv
Entity_Type_Definition: Comma-separated values (.csv) of the 217 dissipative cross-shore profiles (216 profiles are with a nearshore bar and 1 is barless).
Entity_Type_Definition_Source: USGS
Attribute:
Attribute_Label: X
Attribute_Definition: Cross-shore positional grid for the profiles.
Attribute_Definition_Source: USGS
Attribute_Domain_Values:
Range_Domain:
Range_Domain_Minimum: -21.05
Range_Domain_Maximum: 14.75
Attribute_Units_of_Measure: meters
Attribute_Measurement_Resolution: 0.01
Attribute:
Attribute_Label: BAR{position}{width}L{height}
Attribute_Definition: Elevation values for the 216 synthetic profiles with a nearshore bar. The profiles are labelled the following: 'BAR{position}{width}L{height}'. The {position} value is a numeric value that corresponds to the distance of the bar crest from the shoreline (in meters) multiplied by 10 (i.e., 14 = 1.4 m from the shoreline). The {width} values increase from S2 to S1 to L0 (original width) to B1 to B2. The {height} values increase from S2 to S1 to L0 (original height) to B1 to B2 to B3. All profiles have an elevation range of 0 meters to 1.35 meters.
Attribute_Definition_Source: USGS
Attribute_Domain_Values:
Range_Domain:
Range_Domain_Minimum: 0.00
Range_Domain_Maximum: 1.35
Attribute_Units_of_Measure: meters
Attribute_Measurement_Resolution: 0.01
Attribute:
Attribute_Label: Barless
Attribute_Definition: Elevation values for the barless synthetic profile.
Attribute_Definition_Source: USGS
Attribute_Domain_Values:
Range_Domain:
Range_Domain_Minimum: 0.00
Range_Domain_Maximum: 1.35
Attribute_Units_of_Measure: meters
Attribute_Measurement_Resolution: 0.001
Distribution_Information:
Distributor:
Contact_Information:
Contact_Organization_Primary:
Contact_Organization: U.S. Geological Survey, St. Petersburg Coastal and Marine Science Center
Contact_Person: USGS SPCMSC Data Management
Contact_Address:
Address_Type: mailing and physical
Address: 600 4th Street South
City: St. Petersburg
State_or_Province: FL
Postal_Code: 33701
Country: United States
Contact_Voice_Telephone: 727-502-8000
Contact_Electronic_Mail_Address: gs-g-spcmsc_data_inquiries@usgs.gov
Distribution_Liability: Unless otherwise stated, all data, metadata and related materials are considered to satisfy the quality standards relative to the purpose for which the data were collected. Although these data and associated metadata have been reviewed for accuracy and completeness and approved for release by the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS), no warranty expressed or implied is made regarding the display or utility of the data for other purposes, nor on all computer systems, nor shall the act of distribution constitute any such warranty. Any use of trade, firm, or product names is for descriptive purposes only and does not imply endorsement by the U.S. Government.
Standard_Order_Process:
Digital_Form:
Digital_Transfer_Information:
Format_Name: comma-delimited text
Digital_Transfer_Option:
Online_Option:
Computer_Contact_Information:
Network_Address:
Network_Resource_Name: https://coastal.er.usgs.gov/data-release/doi-P137WIC8/data/Dissipative_Profiles.zip
Fees: None
Metadata_Reference_Information:
Metadata_Date: 20250402
Metadata_Contact:
Contact_Information:
Contact_Organization_Primary:
Contact_Organization: U.S. Geological Survey, St. Petersburg Coastal and Marine Science Center
Contact_Person: USGS SPCMSC Data Management
Contact_Address:
Address_Type: mailing and physical
Address: 600 4th Street South
City: Saint Petersburg
State_or_Province: FL
Postal_Code: 33701
Country: Unites States
Contact_Voice_Telephone: 727-502-8000
Contact_Electronic_Mail_Address: gs-g-spcmsc_data_inquiries@usgs.gov
Metadata_Standard_Name: Content Standard for Digital Geospatial Metadata
Metadata_Standard_Version: FGDC-STD-001-1998