Reflective SWASH Profiles for Assessing the Role of Bar Morphology on Wave Runup

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What does this data set describe?

Title:
Reflective SWASH Profiles for Assessing the Role of Bar Morphology on Wave Runup
Abstract:
In 2023, Conti and others (2024a) ran a series of flume experiments to investigate the effect of moisture content on dune erosion. In this study, the flume setup was used from Conti and others (2024b) to assess the role of offshore sandbar morphology on regulating wave runup at the shoreline and hydrodynamics in the nearshore. A hindcast of the Conti and others (2024a) flume experiment was performed using the Simulating Waves Till Shore (SWASH; Zijlema and others, 2011). A series of synthetic flume profiles were then derived with modified bar morphologies and used as a boundary condition for additional SWASH simulations. SWASH requires a beach profile as a boundary condition and wave forcing conditions. The JONSWAP spectrum from the physical flume experiment (Conti and others, 2024b) was used to force the model on the profiles in this dataset. This data release contains two sets (reflective and dissipative) of synthesized barred beach profiles based on conditions in the University of New South Wales Water Research Laboratory's 0.9-meter (m) wave flume. Each set of profiles contain a barless version to allow comparisons between barred and planar beaches.
  1. How might this data set be cited?
    Itzkin, Michael, Palmsten, Margaret L., and Buckley, Mark L., 20250402, Reflective SWASH Profiles for Assessing the Role of Bar Morphology on Wave Runup:.

    This is part of the following larger work.

    Itzkin, Michael, Conti, Stefano, Palmsten, Margaret L., Splinter, Kristen D., and Buckley, Mark L., 20250402, The Relative Role of Bar Morphology on Wave Runup and Hydrodynamics: Model Inputs: U.S. Geological Survey data release doi:10.5066/P137WIC8, U.S. Geological Survey - St. Petersburg Coastal and Marine Science Center, St. Petersburg, FL.

    Online Links:

  2. What geographic area does the data set cover?
    West_Bounding_Coordinate: 151.256639
    East_Bounding_Coordinate: 151.256639
    North_Bounding_Coordinate: -33.780667
    South_Bounding_Coordinate: -33.780667
  3. What does it look like?
  4. Does the data set describe conditions during a particular time period?
    Calendar_Date: 02-Apr-2025
    Currentness_Reference:
    publication date
  5. What is the general form of this data set?
    Geospatial_Data_Presentation_Form: tabular digital data
  6. How does the data set represent geographic features?
    1. How are geographic features stored in the data set?
    2. What coordinate system is used to represent geographic features?
  7. How does the data set describe geographic features?
    reflective_profiles.csv
    Comma-separated values (.csv) of the 217 reflective cross-shore profiles (216 profiles are with a nearshore bar and 1 is barless). (Source: USGS)
    X
    Cross-shore positional grid for the profiles. (Source: USGS)
    Range of values
    Minimum:-11.15
    Maximum:5.75
    Units:meters
    Resolution:0.01
    BAR{position}{width}L{height}
    Elevation values for the 216 synthetic profiles with a nearshore bar. The profiles are labelled the following: 'BAR{position}{width}L{height}'. The {position} value is a numeric value that corresponds to the distance of the bar crest from the shoreline (in meters) multiplied by 10 (i.e., 14 = 1.4 m from the shoreline). The {width} values increase from S2 to S1 to L0 (original width) to B1 to B2. The {height} values increase from S2 to S1 to L0 (original height) to B1 to B2 to B3. All profiles have an elevation range of 0 meters to 1.35 meters. (Source: USGS)
    Range of values
    Minimum:0.00
    Maximum:1.35
    Units:meters
    Resolution:0.01
    Barless
    Elevation values for the barless synthetic profile. (Source: USGS)
    Range of values
    Minimum:0.00
    Maximum:1.35
    Units:meters
    Resolution:0.01

Who produced the data set?

  1. Who are the originators of the data set? (may include formal authors, digital compilers, and editors)
    • Michael Itzkin
    • Margaret L. Palmsten
    • Mark L. Buckley
  2. Who also contributed to the data set?
    This dataset was created in collaboration between the U.S. Geological Survey and the University of New South Wales.
  3. To whom should users address questions about the data?
    U.S. Geological Survey - St. Petersburg Coastal and Marine Science Center
    Attn: Michael Itzkin
    Research Geologist
    600 4th Street South
    St. Petersburg, FL
    United States

    727-502-8131 (voice)
    mitzkin@usgs.gov

Why was the data set created?

These data were generated to run SWASH simulations analyzing how different sandbar morphologies affect nearshore hydrodynamics and wave runup. The data file, reflective_profiles.csv is a comma separated values (csv) file containing the cross-shore (X) and elevation values for each profile.

How was the data set created?

  1. From what previous works were the data drawn?
    Conti and others (2024b) (source 1 of 1)
    Conti, S., Splinter, K., Booth, E., Djadjiguna, D., and Turner, I.L., 20240320, ARC - dune erosion experiment UNSW - Conti, Splinter, Booth, Djadjiguna, Turner: University of New South Wales, Sydney NSW, Australia.

    Online Links:

    Type_of_Source_Media: .txt and .mp4
    Source_Contribution:
    The "Dune and Foreshore Profile Data" and the "Bathymetric Data" files available in this data release were used to develop the synthetic profiles used in this dataset as well as to provide an input profile for the SWASH hindcast that was used for model validation.
  2. How were the data generated, processed, and modified?
    Date: 2024 (process 1 of 1)
    The initial beach profile found in Conti and others (2024b) was scanned using a Sensor Intelligence® SICK LMS111 LiDAR sensor. The profiles in this dataset were then created by replacing the subaqueous profile with a synthetic profile defined using the piecewise relationships for barred profiles in Stephens and others (2010) and following the relationship between bar size and depth described in Russeink and others (2003). The subaerial portion of the profile was created by extending a linear profile from the trough of the bar through the shoreline and up to an elevation of 1.35 meters to match the initial profile elevation. The naming convention for the bars is 'BAR{position}{width}L{height} where {position}' increases offshore from 14 to 49 (1.4 meters from the shoreline to 4.9 meters from the shoreline), {height} increases from SL to 0L to B1 to B2 to B3, and {width} increases from S2 to S1 to L0 to B1 to B2. 216 profiles that contain a sandbar were produced by repeating the above methodology for all combinations of bar positions, bar widths, and bar heights. An additional, barless, profile was made using an exponential curve for the subaqueous portion of the profile. Person who carried out this activity:
    Michael Itzkin
    U.S. Geological Survey - St. Petersburg Coastal and Marine Science Center
    Research Geologist
    600 4th Street South
    St. Petersburg, FL
    United States

    727-502-8131 (voice)
    mitzkin@usgs.gov
    Data sources used in this process:
    • Conti and others (2024b)
    Data sources produced in this process:
    • reflective_profiles.csv
  3. What similar or related data should the user be aware of?
    Conti, S., Splinter, K.D., Booth, E., Djadjiguna, D., and Turner, I.L., 20241001, Observations on the role of internal sand moisture dynamics in wave-driven dune face erosion: Geomorphology Volume 462.

    Online Links:

    Other_Citation_Details: 2024a
    Zijlema, M., Stelling, G., and Smit, P., 20110531, SWASH: An operational public domain code for simulating wave fields and rapidly varied flows in coastal waters: Coastal Engineering Volume 58, Issue 10.

    Online Links:

    Other_Citation_Details: Pages 992-1012
    Stephens, S.A., Coco, G., and Bryan, K.R., 20101020, Numerical Simulations of Wave Setup over Barred Beach Profiles: Implications for Predictability: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering Volume 137, Issue 4.

    Online Links:

    Ruessink, B.G., Wijnberg, K.M., Holman, R.A., Kuriyama, Y., and Van Enckevort, I.M.J., 20030805, Intersite Comparison of Interannual Nearshore Bar Behavior: Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans Volume 108, Issue C8.

    Online Links:

How reliable are the data; what problems remain in the data set?

  1. How well have the observations been checked?
  2. How accurate are the geographic locations?
    Horizontal positions are on a local coordinate system with an accuracy of 25 millimeters (mm).
  3. How accurate are the heights or depths?
    Vertical positions are on a local coordinate system with an accuracy of 25 mm.
  4. Where are the gaps in the data? What is missing?
    These are the complete model inputs for the reflective SWASH simulations. This dataset is considered complete for the information presented, as described in the abstract section. Users are advised to read the rest of the metadata record carefully for additional details.
  5. How consistent are the relationships among the observations, including topology?
    The 217 synthetic reflective beach profiles are provided with a cross-shore spacing (dx) of 0.04 m.

How can someone get a copy of the data set?

Are there legal restrictions on access or use of the data?
Access_Constraints No access constraints. Please see 'Distribution Information' for details.
Use_Constraints These data are marked with a Creative Common CC0 1.0 Universal License. These data are in the public domain and do not have any use constraints. Users are advised to read the dataset's metadata thoroughly to understand appropriate use and data limitations.
  1. Who distributes the data set? (Distributor 1 of 1)
    U.S. Geological Survey, St. Petersburg Coastal and Marine Science Center
    Attn: USGS SPCMSC Data Management
    600 4th Street South
    St. Petersburg, FL
    United States

    727-502-8000 (voice)
    gs-g-spcmsc_data_inquiries@usgs.gov
  2. What's the catalog number I need to order this data set?
  3. What legal disclaimers am I supposed to read?
    Unless otherwise stated, all data, metadata and related materials are considered to satisfy the quality standards relative to the purpose for which the data were collected. Although these data and associated metadata have been reviewed for accuracy and completeness and approved for release by the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS), no warranty expressed or implied is made regarding the display or utility of the data for other purposes, nor on all computer systems, nor shall the act of distribution constitute any such warranty. Any use of trade, firm, or product names is for descriptive purposes only and does not imply endorsement by the U.S. Government.
  4. How can I download or order the data?

Who wrote the metadata?

Dates:
Last modified: 02-Apr-2025
Metadata author:
U.S. Geological Survey, St. Petersburg Coastal and Marine Science Center
Attn: USGS SPCMSC Data Management
600 4th Street South
Saint Petersburg, FL
Unites States

727-502-8000 (voice)
gs-g-spcmsc_data_inquiries@usgs.gov
Metadata standard:
Content Standard for Digital Geospatial Metadata (FGDC-STD-001-1998)
This page is <https://cmgds.marine.usgs.gov/catalog/spcmsc/reflective_profiles_metadata.faq.html>
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