Metadata: Identification_Information: Citation: Citation_Information: Originator: Alfredo L. Aretxabaleta Originator: Zafer Defne Originator: Tarandeep S. Kalra Originator: Brian O. Blanton Originator: Neil K. Ganju Publication_Date: 20220126 Title: Climatological wave height, wave period and wave power along coastal areas of the East Coast of the United States and Gulf of Mexico Edition: 1.0 Geospatial_Data_Presentation_Form: Tabular and vector digital data Series_Information: Series_Name: data release Issue_Identification: DOI:10.5066/P9HJ0JIQ Publication_Information: Publication_Place: Woods Hole Coastal and Marine Science Center, Woods Hole, MA Publisher: U.S. Geological Survey, Coastal and Marine Hazards and Resources Program Other_Citation_Details: Suggested citation: Aretxabaleta A.L., Defne, Z., Kalra, T.S., Blanton B.O. and Ganju, N.K., 2022, Climatological wave height, wave period and wave power along coastal areas of the East Coast of the United States and Gulf of Mexico: U.S. Geological Survey data release, https://doi.org/10.5066/P9HJ0JIQ. Online_Linkage: https://doi.org/10.5066/P9HJ0JIQ Online_Linkage: https://www.sciencebase.gov/catalog/item/61ce0a6dd34ed79293fc874b Description: Abstract: This U.S. Geological Survey data release provides data on spatial variations in climatological wave parameters (significant wave height, peak wave period, and wave power) for coastal areas along the United States East Coast and Gulf of Mexico. Significant wave height is the average wave height, from crest to trough, of the highest one-third of the waves in a specific time period. Peak wave period is the wave period associated with the most energetic waves in the wave spectrum in a specific time period. Wave power is the energy per unit length generated by the movement of ocean waves. Climatological wave conditions provide the average forcing that can lead to changes in the coastal environment. For the generation of this dataset, we use model simulations. Waves under different climatological wind forcing conditions averaged from the European Centre for Medium Range Weather Forecast (ECMWF) Re-Analysis (ERA-5) were simulated using the coupled ADCIRC/SWAN model system. Coastal areas are resolved with horizontal resolutions on the order of hundreds of meters. The ADCIRC/SWAN simulations provide steady-state wave conditions under constant wind at each computational point of an unstructured grid that covers the entire area of interest—from the open ocean to overland areas up to approximately 15 meters above the North American Vertical Datum of 1988. The simulations provide wave height and period and are also used to calculate wave power. We consider the frequency of occurrence of each wind magnitude and direction bin for each location to reconstruct weighted-average wave conditions. The resulting wave parameters are provided at all points of the computational grid less than 10 meter elevation and shallower than -30 meter bottom depth (North American Vertical Datum of 1988). Grid points above 10 meters and deeper than 30 meters are given a fill value. Purpose: Climatological wave data were created to be used in evaluating the spatial variation of the response and resiliency of coastal environments to wave conditions. Time_Period_of_Content: Time_Period_Information: Single_Date/Time: Calendar_Date: 2022 Currentness_Reference: publication date Status: Progress: Complete Maintenance_and_Update_Frequency: Unknown Spatial_Domain: Bounding_Coordinates: West_Bounding_Coordinate: -98.00214 East_Bounding_Coordinate: -54.34012 North_Bounding_Coordinate: 45.83881 South_Bounding_Coordinate: 5.83791 Keywords: Theme: Theme_Keyword_Thesaurus: ISO 19115 Topic Category Theme_Keyword: oceans Theme: Theme_Keyword_Thesaurus: USGS Thesaurus Theme_Keyword: ocean waves Theme_Keyword: coastal processes Theme_Keyword: mathematical modeling Theme: Theme_Keyword_Thesaurus: Marine Realms Information Bank (MRIB) keywords Theme_Keyword: waves Theme: Theme_Keyword_Thesaurus: USGS Metadata Identifier Theme_Keyword: USGS:61ce0a6dd34ed79293fc874b Place: Place_Keyword_Thesaurus: Common geographic areas Place_Keyword: New England Place_Keyword: Mid Atlantic Place_Keyword: South Atlantic-Gulf Place_Keyword: Texas-Gulf Place_Keyword: United States of America Access_Constraints: None Use_Constraints: These data are defined for scientific research purposes and should not be used as a sole source of reference for any regulations and policy making. Public domain data from the U.S. Government are freely redistributable with proper metadata and source attribution. Please recognize the U.S. Geological Survey as the source of this information. Point_of_Contact: Contact_Information: Contact_Organization_Primary: Contact_Organization: U.S. Geological Survey Contact_Person: Alfredo Aretxabaleta Contact_Position: Oceanographer Contact_Address: Address_Type: mailing address Address: 384 Woods Hole Road City: Woods Hole State_or_Province: MA Postal_Code: 02543 Country: US Contact_Voice_Telephone: 508-548-8700 X2204 Contact_Electronic_Mail_Address: aaretxabaleta@usgs.gov Browse_Graphic: Browse_Graphic_File_Name: https://www.sciencebase.gov/catalog/file/get/61ce0a6dd34ed79293fc874b?name=Climatological_WaveHeight.png Browse_Graphic_File_Description: Graphic showing climatological wave height along the US East Coast. Browse_Graphic_File_Type: PNG Data_Quality_Information: Attribute_Accuracy: Attribute_Accuracy_Report: The wave parameter values represent model conditions simulated for a domain that includes the entire East Coast of the United States and Gulf of Mexico. Climatological wind conditions used as forcing could have inaccuracies due to resolution restrictions and physical processes misrepresentations. We take the European Centre for Medium Range Weather Forecast (ECMWF) Re-Analysis (ERA-5) simulations as our best guess for the climatological conditions in the area. The accuracy of the wave model simulations is also limited by resolution and the choice of physical parameters. The model parameters were chosen following the expert opinion of the modeling group that conducts forecast simulations for the East Coast of the United States on the same unstructured grid. Finally, a visual comparison between the current wave analysis data and published results of wave conditions was conducted to qualitatively assure accuracy. Logical_Consistency_Report: The data provided matches the wave source information and falls within the expected ranges for wave parameters. The geospatial data were checked for integrity during the data field creation process and the model points were checked to ensure they match available horizontal datums. Possible data duplicates have been checked and eliminated. Completeness_Report: Wave parameters should not be extrapolated into areas with oceanographic characteristics different from the reference points. A detailed on-the-ground analysis of a single site may result in different wave parameters than established through this analysis. Positional_Accuracy: Horizontal_Positional_Accuracy: Horizontal_Positional_Accuracy_Report: The horizontal accuracy is inherited from the source model grid (ADCIRC grid HSOFS). During the process of grid development by the National Oceanographic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) modeling team (https://www.weather.gov/sti/coastalact_surgewg), several quality checks were performed including a visual comparison between grid elevations and the original maps or data. According to NOAA development team, the grid satisfied NOAA and industry standards. Lineage: Source_Information: Source_Citation: Citation_Information: Originator: European Centre for Medium Range Weather Forecast (ECMWF) copernicus-support@ecmwf.int Publication_Date: 20180614 Title: ERA-5 hourly east-west and north-south wind components at 10 meters height Geospatial_Data_Presentation_Form: tabular digital data Other_Citation_Details: ERA5 hourly data on single levels from 1979 to present Online_Linkage: https://doi.org/10.24381/cds.adbb2d47 Type_of_Source_Media: Digital Source_Time_Period_of_Content: Time_Period_Information: Range_of_Dates/Times: Beginning_Date: 2000 Ending_Date: 2018 Source_Currentness_Reference: publication date Source_Citation_Abbreviation: ERA5_WIND Source_Contribution: The east-west and north-south wind components are combined to produce bins of wind speed and direction Process_Step: Process_Description: This process step and all subsequent process steps were performed by the same person, Alfredo Aretxabaleta in Matlab (ver. 2016b), unless otherwise stated. The latest European Centre for Medium Range Weather Forecast (ECMWF) Re-Analysis (ERA-5, https://www.ecmwf.int/en/forecasts/datasets/reanalysis-datasets/era5) model solution was extracted for all areas along the US East Coast and Gulf of Mexico shoreline. The hourly data for the east-west and north-south wind components at 10 m height were downloaded from https://doi.org/10.24381/cds.adbb2d47 on 20 November 2019. Data for the period January 2000 to December 2018 was used for each location. Source_Used_Citation_Abbreviation: ERA5_WIND Process_Date: 2020 Process_Contact: Contact_Information: Contact_Organization_Primary: Contact_Organization: U.S. Geological Survey Contact_Person: Alfredo Aretxabaleta Contact_Position: Oceanographer Contact_Address: Address_Type: mailing address Address: 384 Woods Hole Road City: Woods Hole State_or_Province: MA Postal_Code: 02543 Country: US Contact_Voice_Telephone: 508-548-8700 x. 2204 Contact_Electronic_Mail_Address: aaretxabaleta@usgs.gov Process_Step: Process_Description: The east-west and north-south wind components are combined to produce wind speed and direction (degrees from True North) using a Matlab code that transforms and rotates vectors from the vector components to magnitude and direction. The wind speeds and directions were binned to create a set of wind roses for each coastal location. Wind direction was binned in 12 intervals using 30-degree intervals: Bin 1: -15 (345) to 15 deg N; Bin 2: 15 to 45 deg N; Bin 3: 45 to 75 deg N; Bin 4: 75 to 105 deg N; Bin 5: 105 to 135 deg N; Bin 6: 135 to 165 deg N; Bin 7: 165 to 195 deg N; Bin 8: 195 to 225 deg N; Bin 9: 225 to 255 deg N; Bin 10: 255 to 285 deg N; Bin 11: 285 to 315 deg N; Bin 12: 315 to 345 deg N and wind speeds were binned with the following ranges: Bin 1: 0-2 m/s; Bin 2: 2-4 m/s; Bin 3: 4-6 m/s; Bin 4: 6-8 m/s; Bin 5: 8-12 m/s; Bin 6 12-38 m/s Process_Date: 20210201 Process_Step: Process_Description: A matrix of model simulations (72 total simulations) of the ADCIRC/SWAN (version 53.04, https://adcirc.org/home/documentation/users-manual-v53/; Dietrich et al. [2011]) modeling system were conducted with different wind directions (12) and intensities (6). A constant wind for each direction centered on the mid-value (0, 30, 60, 90, 120, 150, 180, 210, 240, 270, 300, 330 deg N) and with speeds centered at the mid-value of each bin (1, 3, 5, 7, 10, 25 m/s) were imposed for the entire model domain. The ADCIRC unstructured mesh is from the Hurricane Surge On-demand Forecast System (HSOFS, https://www.weather.gov/sti/coastalact_surgewg; Moghimi et al. [2020]). HSOFS is an unstructured finite element grid that extends westward to the 65 W longitude and resolves the entire East Coast of the United States and the Gulf of Mexico. The grid contains 1.8 million grid points resulting in horizontal resolutions as low as 130m with most coastal grid elements being 300-400m in size. The grid extends overland to approximately the 15 m elevation (North American Vertical Datum of 1988, NAVD88). The model was run in coupled mode, initialized from rest, and run until steady-state was achieved. The significant wave heights and peak periods were extracted from the end of each simulation. Many papers describe the development and usage of the ADCIRC computational model, but basic details can be found in Luettich et al. (1992) and Dietrich et al. (2011). References: Dietrich, J.C., Zijlema, M., Westerink, J.J., Holthuijsen, L.H., Dawson, C., Luettich Jr, R.A., Jensen, R.E., Smith, J.M., Stelling, G.S. and Stone, G.W., 2011, Modeling hurricane waves and storm surge using integrally-coupled, scalable computations. Coastal Engineering, Vol 58(1), pp.45-65. Luettich, R.A., Westerink, J.J., and Scheffner, N.W., 1992, ADCIRC: An Advanced Three-Dimensional Circulation Model for Shelves, Coasts, and Estuaries; Report 1: Theory and Methodology of ADCIRC-2DDI and ADCIRC-3DL; Technical Report CERC-TR-DRP-92-6; U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, U.S. Department of the Army: Washington, DC, USA. Moghimi, S., Van der Westhuysen, A., Abdolali, A., Myers, E., Vinogradov, S., Ma, Z., Liu, F., Mehra, A. and Kurkowski, N., 2020. Development of an ESMF based flexible coupling application of ADCIRC and WAVEWATCH III for high fidelity coastal inundation studies. Journal of Marine Science and Engineering, Vol. 8(5), p.308. Process_Date: 20210201 Process_Contact: Contact_Information: Contact_Organization_Primary: Contact_Organization: U.S. Geological Survey Contact_Person: Alfredo Aretxabaleta Contact_Position: Oceanographer Contact_Address: Address_Type: mailing address Address: 384 Woods Hole Road City: Woods Hole State_or_Province: MA Postal_Code: 02543 Country: US Contact_Voice_Telephone: 508-548-8700 x. 2204 Contact_Electronic_Mail_Address: aaretxabaleta@usgs.gov Process_Step: Process_Description: This process step was performed in Matlab (ver. 2016b). The climatological wave parameters were calculated as the weighted average of the wave conditions. The weights for each location were extracted from the wind distribution of directions and magnitudes from the climatological wind roses from the ERA5 wind dataset. The model solutions provided significant wave height and peak wave period. Wave power is a function of wave height and period and it was calculated using the expression: P = ρ*g^2/(64*pi) * H^2 * T where ρ is the density of water, g is the acceleration due to gravity, H is the significant wave height, and T is the peak period. Process_Date: 20210703 Process_Step: Process_Description: To produce the final dataset, data for grid points for the ADCIRC HSOFS grid above 10 meters elevation (NAVD88) and deeper than -30 meters bottom depth (NADV88) are replaced with a fill value to exclude areas not in the coastal area. Therefore, the resulting wave parameters are provided at all points of the computational grid less than 10 meter and shallower than -30 meter bottom depth (NAVD88). In Matlab (v2016b), the function dlmwrite.m was used to export the data to CSV format. The shapefile was created in ArcMap (ver. 10.7.1) by Zafer Defne from the CSV file using the XY Table to Point Tool, no Z Field was used. Process_Date: 20210824 Spatial_Data_Organization_Information: Direct_Spatial_Reference_Method: Point Point_and_Vector_Object_Information: SDTS_Terms_Description: SDTS_Point_and_Vector_Object_Type: Entity point Point_and_Vector_Object_Count: 1636319 Spatial_Reference_Information: Horizontal_Coordinate_System_Definition: Geographic: Latitude_Resolution: 0.0198031965 Longitude_Resolution: 0.0218640971 Geographic_Coordinate_Units: Decimal seconds Geodetic_Model: Horizontal_Datum_Name: WGS_1984 Ellipsoid_Name: WGS_84 Semi-major_Axis: 6378137.0 Denominator_of_Flattening_Ratio: 298.257223563 Entity_and_Attribute_Information: Detailed_Description: Entity_Type: Entity_Type_Label: Climatological_WaveHeight_Period_WavePower_HSOFS_ver01.shp Attribute Table Entity_Type_Definition: Attribute information associated with wave parameters (wave height, period and power) for coastal areas along the United States East Coast and Gulf of Mexico. The data are available in shapefile and CSV format. The attributes are the same except the shapefile specific attributes (FID, Shape) are not present in the CSV file. The dataset has 1636319 records. Entity_Type_Definition_Source: U.S. Geological Survey Attribute: Attribute_Label: FID Attribute_Definition: Internal feature number. Attribute_Definition_Source: Esri Attribute_Domain_Values: Unrepresentable_Domain: Sequential unique whole numbers that are automatically generated. Attribute: Attribute_Label: Shape Attribute_Definition: Feature geometry. Attribute_Definition_Source: Esri Attribute_Domain_Values: Unrepresentable_Domain: Coordinates defining the features. Attribute: Attribute_Label: lon Attribute_Definition: Longitude coordinate in decimal degrees, NAD83. Negative value indicates Western hemisphere Attribute_Definition_Source: USGS Attribute_Domain_Values: Range_Domain: Range_Domain_Minimum: -98.002143 Range_Domain_Maximum: -54.340122 Attribute_Units_of_Measure: decimal degrees longitude Attribute: Attribute_Label: lat Attribute_Definition: Latitude coordinate in decimal degrees, NAD83 Attribute_Definition_Source: USGS Attribute_Domain_Values: Range_Domain: Range_Domain_Minimum: 5.837913 Range_Domain_Maximum: 45.838806 Attribute_Units_of_Measure: decimal degrees latitude Attribute: Attribute_Label: H Attribute_Definition: Significant wave height: average wave height, from crest to trough, of the highest one-third of the waves in a specific time period. Attribute_Definition_Source: USGS Attribute_Domain_Values: Range_Domain: Range_Domain_Minimum: 0.0 Range_Domain_Maximum: 1.607645 Attribute_Units_of_Measure: meters Attribute: Attribute_Label: T Attribute_Definition: Peak wave period: the wave period associated with the most energetic waves in the wave spectrum in a specific time period. Attribute_Definition_Source: USGS Attribute_Domain_Values: Range_Domain: Range_Domain_Minimum: 0.0 Range_Domain_Maximum: 6.431681 Attribute_Units_of_Measure: seconds Attribute: Attribute_Label: P Attribute_Definition: Wave power: the energy per unit length generated by the movement of ocean waves Attribute_Definition_Source: USGS Attribute_Domain_Values: Range_Domain: Range_Domain_Minimum: 0.0 Range_Domain_Maximum: 7650.718600 Attribute_Units_of_Measure: Watts/meter Overview_Description: Entity_and_Attribute_Overview: In this dataset, data on climatological wave parameters (significant wave height, peak wave period, and wave power) for coastal areas along the United States East Coast and Gulf of Mexico has been provided. The data includes: significant wave height (the average wave height of the highest one-third of the waves); peak wave period (the wave period associated with the most energetic waves); and wave power (the energy per unit length created by the motion of waves). Climatological wave conditions provide the average conditions that can lead to changes in the coastal environment. In this product, wave parameters are estimated from model simulations. Simulated climatological waves are analyzed and the different wave parameters are calculated and mapped. This metadata file has information for one shapefile (Climatological_WaveHeight_Period_WavePower_HSOFS_ver01.shp) and specific attributes are described. Entity_and_Attribute_Detail_Citation: USGS Distribution_Information: Distributor: Contact_Information: Contact_Organization_Primary: Contact_Organization: U.S. Geological Survey - ScienceBase Contact_Address: Address_Type: mailing address Address: Denver Federal Center, Building 810, Mail Stop 302 City: Denver State_or_Province: CO Postal_Code: 80225 Country: United States Contact_Voice_Telephone: 1-888-275-8747 Contact_Electronic_Mail_Address: sciencebase@usgs.gov Resource_Description: The dataset consists of one shapefile: Climatological_WaveHeight_Period_WavePower_HSOFS_ver01.shp and associated files. Additionally, there is one browse graphic file (Climatological_WaveHeight.png) and FGDC CSDGM metadata in XML format (Climatological_Wave_Height_Period_Power_HSOFS.xml). Distribution_Liability: Although these data have been processed successfully on a computer system at the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS), no warranty expressed or implied is made regarding the display or utility of the data for other purposes, nor on all computer systems, nor shall the act of distribution constitute any such warranty. The USGS or the U.S. Government shall not be held liable for improper or incorrect use of the data described and/or contained herein. Unless otherwise stated, all data, metadata and related materials are considered to satisfy the quality standards relative to the purpose for which the data were collected. Although these data and associated metadata have been reviewed for accuracy and completeness and approved for release by the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS), no warranty expressed or implied is made regarding the display or utility of the data for other purposes, nor on all computer systems, nor shall the act of distribution constitute any such warranty. Any use of trade, firm, or product names is for descriptive purposes only and does not imply endorsement by the U.S. Government. Not for navigational use. Standard_Order_Process: Digital_Form: Digital_Transfer_Information: Format_Name: shapefile Format_Version_Number: ArcMap 10.7.1 Format_Information_Content: The dataset includes one shapefile, browse graphic, a CSV file, and CSDGM metadata. Transfer size reflects the entire dataset not just the shapefile. Transfer_Size: 106 Digital_Transfer_Option: Online_Option: Computer_Contact_Information: Network_Address: Network_Resource_Name: https://www.sciencebase.gov/catalog/file/get/61ce0a6dd34ed79293fc874b Network_Resource_Name: https://www.sciencebase.gov/catalog/item/61ce0a6dd34ed79293fc874b Network_Resource_Name: https://doi.org/10.5066/P9HJ0JIQ Access_Instructions: The first link downloads all the files on the landing page in a ZIP file. The second and third links, the latter of which is the DOI designation of the publication, both go to the landing page of the data. Fees: none Metadata_Reference_Information: Metadata_Date: 20220126 Metadata_Contact: Contact_Information: Contact_Organization_Primary: Contact_Organization: U.S. Geological Survey Contact_Person: Alfredo Aretxabaleta Contact_Position: Oceanographer Contact_Address: Address_Type: mailing address Address: 384 Woods Hole Road City: Woods Hole State_or_Province: MA Postal_Code: 02543 Country: US Contact_Voice_Telephone: 508-548-8700 x. 2204 Contact_Electronic_Mail_Address: aaretxabaleta@usgs.gov Metadata_Standard_Name: FGDC Content Standard for Digital Geospatial Metadata Metadata_Standard_Version: FGDC-STD-001-1998