Wave model input files

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Frequently anticipated questions:

What does this data set describe?

Title: Wave model input files
Abstract:
Provided here are the required input files to run a standalone wave model (Simulating Waves WAves Nearshore [SWAN]; Booij and others, 1999) on eleven model domains from the Canada-U.S. border to Norton Sound, Alaska to create a downscaled wave database (DWDB). The DWDB, in turn, can be used to reconstruct hindcast (1979-2019) and projected (2020-2050) time series at each point in the model domains see Engelstad and others, 2023 for further information on reconstruction of time-series. The model forcing files consist of reduced sets of binned wind and wave parameter combinations, hereafter termed ‘sea states’. The use of representative sea states allows for lower computational costs and follows modified methods outlined in for example Camus and others, 2011, Reguero and others, 2013, and Lucero and others, 2017. For these sea states, hourly time-series of wave heights, mean wave periods, and mean incident wave directions, wind speed and wind direction were first extracted from the ERA5 reanalysis (Hersbach and others, 2020; https://cds.climate.copernicus.eu/cdsapp#!/home) for the hindcast period (1979–2019) and from WAVEWATCHIII wave model runs (Erikson and others, 2022) driven by winds and sea ice fields from the 6th generation Coupled Model Inter-comparison Projects (CMIP6 Haarsma and others, 2016). Sea states were selected using a multivariant maximum-dissimilarity algorithm (MDA) which determined representative combinations of significant wave heights, mean wave periods, mean wave directions, wind speeds, and wind directions (for more details see Engelstad and others, 2024). The model output can be used to reconstruct time series at each grid point. The extent of each model domain can be inferred from the browse graphic. Model input files are described in the Entity and Attribute Overview section.
Supplemental_Information:
This work is part of the wave modeling efforts for Alaska and conterminous United States coasts and Territories that support the USGS Coastal Storm Modeling System (CoSMoS). For more information on CoSMoS, see https://www.usgs.gov/centers/pcmsc/science/coastal-storm-modeling-system-cosmos. Funding for this work was provided by the USGS Coastal Marine and Hazards Program (CMHRP).
  1. How might this data set be cited?
    Engelstad, Anita, Erikson, Li H., Gibbs, Ann E., and Nederhoff, Kees, 20240312, Wave model input files: data release DOI: 10.5066/P931CSO9, U.S. Geological Survey, Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center, Santa Cruz, California.

    Online Links:

    This is part of the following larger work.

    Engelstad, Anita, Erikson, Li H., Reguero, Borja G., Gibbs, Ann E., and Nederhoff, Kees, 2024, Nearshore wave time-series along the coast of Alaska computed with a numerical wave model: data release DOI: 10.5066/P931CSO9, U.S. Geological Survey, Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center, Santa Cruz, California.

    Online Links:

    Other_Citation_Details:
    Suggested Citation: Engelstad, A.C., Erikson, L.H., Reguero, B.G., Gibbs, A.E., Nederhoff, K.M., 2024, Nearshore wave time-series along the coast of Alaska computed with a numerical wave model: U.S. Geological Survey data release, https://doi.org/10.5066/P931CSO9.
  2. What geographic area does the data set cover?
    West_Bounding_Coordinate: -168.500
    East_Bounding_Coordinate: -139.990
    North_Bounding_Coordinate: 71.4788
    South_Bounding_Coordinate: 62.1813
  3. What does it look like?
    WaveModel_Domains.jpg (jpg)
    Satellite image showing the extent of the available model domains.
  4. Does the data set describe conditions during a particular time period?
    Beginning_Date: 2020
    Ending_Date: 2022
    Currentness_Reference:
    years in which the data were created
  5. What is the general form of this data set?
    Geospatial_Data_Presentation_Form: various
  6. How does the data set represent geographic features?
    1. How are geographic features stored in the data set?
      Indirect_Spatial_Reference: The model files included are for the SWAN model.
    2. What coordinate system is used to represent geographic features?
      Horizontal positions are specified in geographic coordinates, that is, latitude and longitude. Latitudes are given to the nearest 0.1. Longitudes are given to the nearest 0.001. Latitude and longitude values are specified in Decimal degrees. The horizontal datum used is North American Datum of 1983.
      The ellipsoid used is Geodetic Reference System 80.
      The semi-major axis of the ellipsoid used is 6378137.000000.
      The flattening of the ellipsoid used is 1/298.257222.
      Vertical_Coordinate_System_Definition:
      Altitude_System_Definition:
      Altitude_Datum_Name:
      approximate Mean Sea Level as determined by the Prudhoe NOAA tide station
      Altitude_Resolution: 0.01
      Altitude_Distance_Units: meters
      Altitude_Encoding_Method:
      Explicit elevation coordinate included with horizontal coordinates
  7. How does the data set describe geographic features?
    Entity_and_Attribute_Overview:
    The data is packaged so that SWAN can be run for each domain either for the hindcast (ERA5) or the projected (CMIP6) period. Files are available in SWAN-specific file formats (detailed below) and are contained in a single zip file (WaveModel_GridsBathy_BeaufortChukchi.zip). The files are named by region (‘bfrt’ for the Beaufort Sea, ‘chuk’ for the Chukchi Sea, ‘bering’ for the Bering Strait), with a counterclockwise numbering. See browse graphic for the domain extents. The input files consist of the following:DOMAIN.grd: computational grid for the domain where DOMAIN can be bfrt1, bfrt2, bfrt3, chuk1, chuk2, chuk3, chuk4, chuk5, or chuk6 (see graphic for locations). The offshore extent for model domains is roughly defined by the 20 m isobath, whereas the domain length and width vary, depending on the offshore extent of each grid and local shoreline curvature. Nearshore grid size resolution is generally ≤ 200 x 200 m. In the offshore regions, cross- and along-shore grid resolution varies between 300–1000 m and 200–300 m, respectively. DOMAIN.dep: depth file (in meters) for the domain (SWAN depths are positive, the model uses -999 values for inactive cells, relative to approximate local mean sea level. DOMAIN.obt: contains the obstacle definitions and the name of the polygon file. Obstacles are used to resolve barrier islands where the grid resolution is coarse. DOMAIN.pol: polygon file (only for domains bfrt1, bfrt2, bfrt3, chuk1, chuk2, chuk4)MOD_wavecon. DOMAIN_AP_PART: wave condition file, containing the wave and wind conditions for every computational step. MOD can either be ERA5 or CMIP6, AP is either E or C (denoting ERA5 or CMIP6), and PART is the part number (ERA5 consists of 3 parts, each part containing a maximum of 999 conditions, while CMIP6 has 4 parts). The extension of the wavecon file needs to have the same naming convention as the .mdw file so that SWAN can find the file (e.g. ‘chuk6_C4.mdw’ contains the computational steps [TimePoints] 179820- 203940 for which the wave and wind conditions can be found in ‘CMIP6_wavecon.chuk6_C4’).DOMAIN_AP_PART.mdw: master definition file for the wave model. It contains the physics that are to be used, as well as the filenames for grids, depths, the obstacle option if used, timesteps, etc. For more information, see the D-Waves_User_Manual.pdf (available for download here: https://content.oss.deltares.nl/delft3d/manuals/D-Waves_User_Manual.pdf)
    Entity_and_Attribute_Detail_Citation: U.S. Geological Survey

Who produced the data set?

  1. Who are the originators of the data set? (may include formal authors, digital compilers, and editors)
    • Anita Engelstad
    • Li H. Erikson
    • Ann E. Gibbs
    • Kees Nederhoff
  2. Who also contributed to the data set?
  3. To whom should users address questions about the data?
    U.S. Geological Survey, Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center
    Attn: PCMSC Science Data Coordinator
    2885 Mission Street
    Santa Cruz, CA

    831-427-4747 (voice)
    pcmsc_data@usgs.gov

Why was the data set created?

The purpose of this data release is to provide researchers, engineers, and other potential users with model input files that can be used to run the SWAN wave model along the coast of Alaska from the Canada-U.S. border to Norton Sound. These data are not intended to be used for navigation.

How was the data set created?

  1. From what previous works were the data drawn?
    IBCAO (source 1 of 5)
    IBCAO Version 4.0 Compilation Group, 2020, The International Bathymetric Chart of the Arctic Ocean (IBCAO) Version 4.0.: British Oceanographic Data Centre, National Oceanography Centre, NERC, UK, online.

    Online Links:

    Type_of_Source_Media: online database
    Source_Contribution:
    gridded continuous terrain model covering land and ocean in the Arctic region
    DEM Arey Lagoon (source 2 of 5)
    Erikson, Li H., Gibbs, Ann E., Richmond, Bruce M., Jones, Benjamin M., Storlazzi, Curt D., and Ohman, Karin, 2020, Modeled 21st Century Storm Surge, Waves, and Coastal Flood Hazards, and Supporting Oceanographic and Geological Field Data (2010 and 2011) for Arey and Barter Islands, Alaska and Vicinity: U.S. Geological Survey, online.

    Online Links:

    Type_of_Source_Media: online database
    Source_Contribution: digital elevation model around Arey Lagoon, Alaska
    ERA5 (source 3 of 5)
    Copernicus Climate Change Service, 2017, ERA5: Fifth generation of ECMWF atmospheric reanalyses of the global climate: Copernicus Climate Change Service Climate Data Store, online.

    Online Links:

    Type_of_Source_Media: online database
    Source_Contribution: wave data used to derive sea states for hindcast
    WW3 (source 4 of 5)
    Erikson, Li, Herdman, Liv, Flanary, Chris, Engelstad, Anita, Pusuluri, Prasad, Barnard, Patrick, Storlazzi, Curt, Beck, Mike, Reguero, Borja, and Parker, Kai, 2022, Ocean wave time-series simulated with a global-scale numerical wave model under the influence of projected CMIP6 wind and sea ice fields: U.S. Geological Survey, online.

    Online Links:

    Type_of_Source_Media: online database
    Source_Contribution: wave data used to derive sea states for hindcast
    bathymetry (source 5 of 5)
    Snyder, Alexander G., Johnson, Cordell D., Gibbs, Ann E., and Erikson, Li H., 2021, Nearshore bathymetry data from the Unalakleet River mouth, Alaska, 2019: U.S. Geological Survey, online.

    Online Links:

    Type_of_Source_Media: online database
    Source_Contribution: bathymetry data at the mouth of the Unalakleet River, Alaska
  2. How were the data generated, processed, and modified?
    Date: 14-Jul-2021 (process 1 of 3)
    Obtained topobathymetric elevation data from IBCAO and generated grid bathymetries for wave simulations. For the Foggy Island Bay area (domain ‘bfrt2’), Utqiagvik (domain ‘chuk1’), Barter Island (domain ‘bfrt1’), and Norton Sound (‘bering2’), IBCAO was merged with available local bathymetry (Coastal Frontiers Corporation, 2014; Erikson and others, 2020; eTrack Inc., 2018; Kasper and others, 2019; OCM Partners, 2023; Snyder and others, 2021; Tweedie and others, 2016). Created polygons for barrier islands and assigned these as obstacles in SWAN. Data sources used in this process:
    • IBCAO
    • DEM Arey Lagoon
    • bathymetry
    Date: 14-Jul-2021 (process 2 of 3)
    Obtained ERA5 wave and wind data and determined 2500 representative sea states (which are a combinations of significant wave height (Hs), mean wave period (Tm), mean wave direction (Dm), wind speed (windv) and wind directions (winddir)) with a multivariant maximum-dissimilarity algorithm (e.g., Camus and others, 2011, Reguero and others, 2013, and Lucero and others, 2017). Data sources used in this process:
    • ERA5
    Date: 04-Mar-2022 (process 3 of 3)
    Obtained CMIP6 wave time-series from WW3 runs (Erikson and others, 2022) for six global climate models (CMCC, CNRM, CNRM, ECEARTH, GFDL, HadgemHH, HadgemHM, HadgemSST) and determined between 3300 and 3900 sea states (e.g., Camus and others, 2011, Reguero and others, 2013, and Lucero and others, 2017), depending on the domain length and alongshore variability of the wave conditions. Data sources used in this process:
    • WW3
  3. What similar or related data should the user be aware of?
    Booij, Nico, Ris, Roeland, and Holthuijsen, Leo, 1999, A third-generation wave model for coastal regions; I- Model description and validation.

    Online Links:

    Other_Citation_Details:
    Booij, N., Ris, R. C., and Holthuijsen, L. H., 1999, A third-generation wave model for coastal regions. I- Model description and validation: Journal of Geophysical Research, v. 104, p. 7649–7666.
    Camus, Paula, Méndez, Fernando J., and Medina, Raúl, 2011, A hybrid efficient method to downscale wave climate to coastal areas.

    Online Links:

    Other_Citation_Details:
    Camus, P., Mendez, F., Medina, R., 2011, A hybrid efficient method to downscale wave climate to coastal areas: Coastal Engineering, v. 58, p 851-862.
    Corporation, Coastal Frontiers, 2014, Suspended sediment dispersal during the Liberty Development construction.

    Other_Citation_Details:
    Coastal Frontiers Corporation, 2014, Suspended sediment dispersal during the Liberty Development construction: Report prepared for BP Exploration, Anchorage, AK, 60 pp.
    Engelstad, Anita C., Erikson, Li H., Reguero, Borja G., Gibbs, Ann E., and Nederhoff, Kees, 2024, Database and Time Series of Nearshore Waves Along the Alaskan Coast from the United States-Canada Border to the Bering Sea.

    Online Links:

    Other_Citation_Details:
    Engelstad, A.C., Erikson, L.H., Reguero, B.G., Gibbs, A.E., and Nederhoff, K., 2024, Database and time series of nearshore waves along the Alaskan coast from the United States-Canada border to the Bering Sea: U.S. Geological Survey Open-File Report 2023–1094, 23 p., https://doi.org/10.3133/ofr20231094.
    Inc., eTrac, 2018, 464169 – Barrow Coastal Erosion Singlebeam Hydrographic Survey.

    Other_Citation_Details:
    eTrac Inc., 2018, Summary Report prepared for U.S. Army Corps of Engineers (USACE), 464169 – Barrow Coastal Erosion Singlebeam Hydrographic Survey, Alaska district
    Haarsma, R.J., Roberts, M.J., Vidale, P.L., Senior, C.A., Bellucci, A., Bao, Q., Chang, P., Corti, S., Fučkar, N.S., Guemas, V., Hardenberg, J. von, Hazeleger, W., Kodama, C., Koenigk, T., Leung, L.R., Lu, J., Luo, J.-J., Mao, J., Mizielinski, M. S., Mizuta, R., Nobre, P., Satoh, M., Scoccimarro, E., Semmler, T., Small, J., and Storch, J.-S. von, 2016, High Resolution Model Intercomparison Project (HighResMIP v1.0) for CMIP6.

    Online Links:

    Other_Citation_Details:
    Haarsma, R.J., Roberts, M.J., Vidale, P.L., Senior, C.A., Bellucci, A., Bao, Q., Chang, P., Corti, S., Fučkar, N.S., Guemas, V., von Hardenberg, J., Hazeleger, W., Kodama, C., Koenigk, T., Leung, L.R., Lu, J., Luo, J.-J., Mao, J., Mizielinski, M.S., Mizuta, R., Nobre, P., Satoh, M., Scoccimarro, E., Semmler, T., Small, J., and von Storch, J.-S., 2016, High Resolution Model Intercomparison Project (HighResMIP v1.0) for CMIP6: Geoscience Model Development, v. 9, p. 4185-4208, doi:10.5194/gmd-9-4185-2016, 2016.
    Hersbach, Hans, Bell, Bill, Berrisford, Paul, Hirahara, Shoji, Horányi, András, Muñoz-Sabater, Joaquín, Nicolas, Julien, Peubey, Carole, Radu, Raluca, Schepers, Dinand, Simmons, Adrian, Soci, Cornel, Abdalla, Saleh, Abellan, Xavier, Balsamo, Gianpaolo, Bechtold, Peter, Biavati, Gionata, Bidlot, Jean, Bonavita, Massimo, Chiara, Giovanna De, Dahlgren, Per, Dee, Dick, Diamantakis, Michail, Dragani, Rossana, Flemming, Johannes, Forbes, Richard, Fuentes, Manuel, Geer, Alan, Haimberger, Leo, Healy, Sean, Hogan, Robin J, Hólm, Elías, Janisková, Marta, Keely, Sarah, Laloyaux, Patrick, Lopez, Philippe, Lupu, Cristina, Radnoti, Gabor, Rosnay, Patricia de, Rozum, Iryna, Vamborg, Freja, Villaume, Sebastien, and Thépaut, Jean-Noël, 2020, The ERA5 global reanalysis.

    Online Links:

    Other_Citation_Details:
    Hersbach, H., Bell, B., Berrisford, P., Hirahara, S., Horányi A., Muñoz-Sabater, J., Nicolas, J., Peubey, C., Radu, R., Schepers, D., Simmons, A., Soci, C., Abdalla, S., Abellan, X., Balsamo, G., Bechtold, P., Biavati, G., Bidlot, J., Bonavita, M., De Chiara, G., Dahlgren, P., Dee, D., Diamantakis, M., Dragani, R., Flemming, J., Forbes, R., Fuentes, M., Geer, A., Haimberger, L., Healy, S., Hogan, R.J., Hólm, E., Janisková, M., Keeley, S., Laloyaux, P., Lopez, P., Lupu, C., Radnoti, G., de Rosnay, P., Rozum, I., Vamborg, F., Villaume,S., Thépau, J.-N., 2020, The ERA5 global reanalysis, Quarterly Journal of the Royal Meteorological Society; v.146, no. 730, pp.1999–2049, https://doi.org/10.1002/qj.3803
    Jakobsson, Martin, Mayer, Larry A., Bringensparr, Caroline, Castro, Carlos F., Mohammad, Rezwan, Johnson, Paul, Ketter, Tomer, Accettella, Daniela, Amblas, David, An, Lu, Arndt, Jan Erik, Canals, Miquel, Casamor, José Luis, Chauché, Nolwenn, Coakley, Bernard, Danielson, Seth, Demarte, Maurizio, Dickson, Mary-Lynn, Dorschel, Boris, Dowdeswell, Julian A., Dreutter, Simon, Fremand, Alice C., Gallant, Dana, Hall, John K., Hehemann, Laura, Hodnesdal, Hanne, Hong, Jongkuk, Ivaldi, Roberta, Kane, Emily, Klaucke, Ingo, Krawczyk, Diana W., Kristoffersen, Yngve, Kuipers, Boele R., Millan, Romain, Masetti, Giuseppe, Morlighem, Mathieu, Noormets, Riko, Prescott, Megan M., Rebesco, Michele, Rignot, Eric, Semiletov, Igor, Tate, Alex J., Travaglini, Paola, Velicogna, Isabella, Weatherall, Pauline, Weinrebe, Wilhelm, Willis, Joshua K., Wood, Michael, Zarayskaya, Yulia, Zhang, Tao, Zimmermann, Mark, and Zinglersen, Karl B., 2020, The international bathymetric chart of the Arctic Ocean.

    Online Links:

    Other_Citation_Details:
    Jakobsson, M., Mayer, L.A., Bringensparr, C., Castro, C.F., Mohammad, R., Johnson, P., Ketter, T., Accettella, D., Amblas, D., An, L., Arndt, J.E., Canals, M., Casamor, J.L., Chauché, N., Coakley, B., Danielson, S., Demarte, M., Dickson, M.-L., Dorschel, B., Dowdeswell, J.A., Dreutter, S., Fremand, A.C., Gallant, D., Hall, J.K., Hehemann, L., Hodnesdal, H., Hong, J., Ivaldi, R., Kane, E., Klaucke, I., Krawczyk, D.W., Kristoffersen, Y., Kuipers, B.R., Millan, R., Masetti, G., Morlighem, M., Noormets, R., Prescott, M.M., Rebesco, M., Rignot, E., Semiletov, I., Tate, A.J., Travaglini, P., Velicogna, I., Weatherall, P., Weinrebe, W., Willis, J.K., Wood, M., Zarayskaya, Y., Zhang, T., Zimmermann, M., and Zinglersen, K.B., 2020, The international bathymetric chart of the Arctic Ocean (vers. 4.0): Scientific Data, v. 7, no. 1, p. 176.
    Lucero, Felipe, Catalán, Patricio A., Ossandón, Álvaro, Beyá, José, Puelma, Andrés, and Zamorano, Luis, 2017, Wave energy assessment in the central-south coast of Chile.

    Online Links:

    Other_Citation_Details:
    Lucero, F., Catalán, P.A., Ossandón, Á, Beyá, J., Puelma, A., Zamorano, L., 2017, Wave energy assessment in the central-south coast of Chile: Renewable Energy, v. 114, p. 120-131.
    Partners, OCM, 2023, 2019 USACE NCMP Topobathy Lidar: Alaska.

    Online Links:

    Other_Citation_Details:
    OCM Partners, 2023: 2019 USACE NCMP Topobathy Lidar: Alaska, NOAA National Centers for Environmental Information.
    Kasper, Jeremy, Jump, S., and Duvoy, Paul, 2019, Central Beaufort Sea wave and hydrodynamic modeling study 2018 Field Report.

    Other_Citation_Details:
    Kasper, J., Jump, S., and Duvoy, P., 2019, Central Beaufort Sea wave and hydrodynamic modeling study 2018 Field Report: UAF Cooperative Agreement M17AC00020/ USGS CFDA No. 15.423.
    Reguero, Borja, Méndez, Fernando, and Losada, Iñigo, 2013, Variability of multivariate wave climate in Latin America and the Caribbean.

    Online Links:

    Other_Citation_Details:
    Reguero, B.G., Méndez, F.J., and Losada, I.J., 2013, Variability of multivariate wave climate in Latin America and the Caribbean: Global and Planetary Change, v. 100, p. 70-84.
    Sultan, Nels J., Braun, Kenton W., Thieman, Dempsey S., and Sampath, Ajay, 2011, North Slope trends in sea level, storm frequency, duration and intensity.

    Online Links:

    Other_Citation_Details:
    Sultan, N.J., Braun K.W., Thieman, D.S., and Sampath, A., 2011, North Slope trends in sea level, storm frequency, duration and intensity, in 9th International Conference IceTech 2010, International Conference and Exhibition on Performance of Ships and Structures in Ice, Anchorage, Alaska, September 20–23, 2010: Arctic Section of the Society of Naval Architects and Marine Engineers, paper no. ICETECH10-672 155-R0
    Tweedie, Craig E., Escarzaga, Stephen, Manley, William F., Tarin, Gabriela, and Gaylord, Allison, 2016, Near-shore bathymetric sounding points for Elson Lagoon and Chukchi Sea, BarrowRegion, northern Alaska.

    Online Links:

    Other_Citation_Details:
    Tweedie, C.E., Escarzaga, S., Manley, W.F., Tarin, W.F., Gaylord, A., 2016, Near-shore bathymetric sounding points for Elson Lagoon and Chukchi Sea, Barrow, Annual Shorelines for the Barrow Region, northern Alaska, for 2013 to 2015: Barrow Area Information Database (BAID), Digital Media

How reliable are the data; what problems remain in the data set?

  1. How well have the observations been checked?
    The bathymetry for the domains was primarily based on products provided by the International Bathymetric Chart of the Arctic Ocean (IBCAO, Jakobsson and others, 2020), which have a resolution of 200 x 200 m. IBCAO is based on all available bathymetric datasets north of 64 degrees North. In the nearshore region, these are generally NOAA, National Ocean Service (NOS) hydrographic surveys which were mainly conducted between the 1940s and 1970s. Newer products for the Arctic are sparse and a high uncertainty in coastline position and water depth remains, particularly in the nearshore regions (for details, see Engelstad and others, 2023). An exception is for 3 regions where newer and more accurate bathymetric data were used (see Process Step below).
  2. How accurate are the geographic locations?
    A qualitative accuracy assessment of the horizontal position information in the data set was conducted. Changes to the bathymetry were made in the vicinity of Cross Island offshore of Prudhoe Bay (grid 'bfrt2') where a NOS dataset (H07760 from 1950) appeared to have been horizontally misplaced and which was manually rectified. Furthermore, because of sparsity of bathymetric data and the years in which the measurements were obtained (primarily 1940-1970), uncertainties related to water depths and shoreline position are significant. Shoreline position data from USGS topographic maps from the 1950s to 1990s at scales between 1:63,360 and 1:250,000 were used to update the bathymetry in the very nearshore region. Bathymetric points along the shoreline and extending seaward roughly 500 meters were removed and subsequently populated using an internal diffusion algorithm (Deltares, 2021, QUICKIN, at https://content.oss.deltares.nl/delft3d/manuals/QUICKIN_User_Manual.pdf)
  3. How accurate are the heights or depths?
    Bathymetries are concurrent with topobathymetric DEM locations. Sea level rise was considered as an increase in water levels of 2 millimeters per year (mm/yr) in the region (Sultan and others, 2011) between the year of the surveys and today (roughly 0.15 m) which was added to the bathymetry. A formal accuracy assessment of the vertical positional information in the data set has not been conducted. However, because of the sparsity of data and the years in which the observations were collected (primarily 1940-1970), uncertainties related to water depths and shoreline position are significant. These cannot be specified due to a lack of knowledge and local differences in erosion and accretion rates.
  4. Where are the gaps in the data? What is missing?
    Dataset is considered complete for the information presented, as described in the abstract.
  5. How consistent are the relationships among the observations, including topology?
    Bathymetry data have undergone quality checks and meet standards within the above and below mentioned limitations. Model output was reconstructed and compared to several nearshore observations. Significant wave heights (Hs) were modeled with a combined root mean square error (RMSE) of 0.18 m for these locations.

How can someone get a copy of the data set?

Are there legal restrictions on access or use of the data?
Access_Constraints None
Use_Constraints USGS-authored or produced data and information are in the public domain from the U.S. Government and are freely redistributable with proper metadata and source attribution. Please recognize and acknowledge the U.S. Geological Survey as the originator(s) of the dataset and in products derived from these data.
  1. Who distributes the data set? (Distributor 1 of 1)
    U.S. Geological Survey - CMGDS
    2885 Mission Street
    Santa Cruz, CA

    831-427-4747 (voice)
    pcmsc_data@usgs.gov
  2. What's the catalog number I need to order this data set? These data are available in SWAN specific file formats and are contained in a single zip file.
  3. What legal disclaimers am I supposed to read?
    Unless otherwise stated, all data, metadata, and related materials are considered to satisfy the quality standards relative to the purpose for which the data were collected. Although these data and associated metadata have been reviewed for accuracy and completeness and approved for release by the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS), no warranty expressed or implied is made regarding the display or utility of the data on any other system or for general or scientific purposes, nor shall the act of distribution constitute any such warranty.
  4. How can I download or order the data?
    • Availability in digital form:
      Data format: Zip file contains files necessary to run SWAN on 11 domains in format text files (version SWAN version 41.31) Size: 66.5
      Network links: https://doi.org/10.5066/P931CSO9
    • Cost to order the data: None.

  5. What hardware or software do I need in order to use the data set?
    These data can be viewed with any software that reads netCDF files, such as Mathworks MATLAB, Python, Panoply.

Who wrote the metadata?

Dates:
Last modified: 12-Mar-2024
Metadata author:
U.S. Geological Survey, Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center
Attn: PCMSC Science Data Coordinator
2885 Mission Street
Santa Cruz, CA

831-427-4747 (voice)
pcmsc_data@usgs.gov
Metadata standard:
Content Standard for Digital Geospatial Metadata (FGDC-STD-001-1998)
This page is <https://cmgds.marine.usgs.gov/catalog/pcmsc/DataReleases/CMGDS_DR_tool/DR_P931CSO9/WaveModel_Input_metadata.faq.html>
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