Climatological wave height, wave period and wave power along coastal areas of the East Coast of the United States and Gulf of Mexico

This process step and all subsequent process steps were performed by the same person, Alfredo Aretxabaleta in Matlab (ver. 2016b), unless otherwise stated.
The latest European Centre for Medium Range Weather Forecast (ECMWF) Re-Analysis (ERA-5, https://www.ecmwf.int/en/forecasts/datasets/reanalysis-datasets/era5) model solution was extracted for all areas along the US East Coast and Gulf of Mexico shoreline. The hourly data for the east-west and north-south wind components at 10 m height were downloaded from https://doi.org/10.24381/cds.adbb2d47 on 20 November 2019. Data for the period January 2000 to December 2018 was used for each location.

The east-west and north-south wind components are combined to produce wind speed and direction (degrees from True North) using a Matlab code that transforms and rotates vectors from the vector components to magnitude and direction.
The wind speeds and directions were binned to create a set of wind roses for each coastal location. Wind direction was binned in 12 intervals using 30-degree intervals: Bin 1: -15 (345) to 15 deg N; Bin 2: 15 to 45 deg N; Bin 3: 45 to 75 deg N; Bin 4: 75 to 105 deg N; Bin 5: 105 to 135 deg N; Bin 6: 135 to 165 deg N; Bin 7: 165 to 195 deg N; Bin 8: 195 to 225 deg N; Bin 9: 225 to 255 deg N; Bin 10: 255 to 285 deg N; Bin 11: 285 to 315 deg N; Bin 12: 315 to 345 deg N
and wind speeds were binned with the following ranges: Bin 1: 0-2 m/s; Bin 2: 2-4 m/s; Bin 3: 4-6 m/s; Bin 4: 6-8 m/s; Bin 5: 8-12 m/s; Bin 6 12-38 m/s

A matrix of model simulations (72 total simulations) of the ADCIRC/SWAN (version 53.04, https://adcirc.org/home/documentation/users-manual-v53/; Dietrich et al. [2011]) modeling system were conducted with different wind directions (12) and intensities (6). A constant wind for each direction centered on the mid-value (0, 30, 60, 90, 120, 150, 180, 210, 240, 270, 300, 330 deg N) and with speeds centered at the mid-value of each bin (1, 3, 5, 7, 10, 25 m/s) were imposed for the entire model domain.
The ADCIRC unstructured mesh is from the Hurricane Surge On-demand Forecast System (HSOFS, https://www.weather.gov/sti/coastalact_surgewg; Moghimi et al. [2020]). HSOFS is an unstructured finite element grid that extends westward to the 65 W longitude and resolves the entire East Coast of the United States and the Gulf of Mexico. The grid contains 1.8 million grid points resulting in horizontal resolutions as low as 130m with most coastal grid elements being 300-400m in size. The grid extends overland to approximately the 15 m elevation (North American Vertical Datum of 1988, NAVD88).
The model was run in coupled mode, initialized from rest, and run until steady-state was achieved. The significant wave heights and peak periods were extracted from the end of each simulation.
Many papers describe the development and usage of the ADCIRC computational model, but basic details can be found in Luettich et al. (1992) and Dietrich et al. (2011).
References:
Dietrich, J.C., Zijlema, M., Westerink, J.J., Holthuijsen, L.H., Dawson, C., Luettich Jr, R.A., Jensen, R.E., Smith, J.M., Stelling, G.S. and Stone, G.W., 2011, Modeling hurricane waves and storm surge using integrally-coupled, scalable computations. Coastal Engineering, Vol 58(1), pp.45-65.
Luettich, R.A., Westerink, J.J., and Scheffner, N.W., 1992, ADCIRC: An Advanced Three-Dimensional Circulation Model for Shelves, Coasts, and Estuaries; Report 1: Theory and Methodology of ADCIRC-2DDI and ADCIRC-3DL; Technical Report CERC-TR-DRP-92-6; U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, U.S. Department of the Army: Washington, DC, USA.
Moghimi, S., Van der Westhuysen, A., Abdolali, A., Myers, E., Vinogradov, S., Ma, Z., Liu, F., Mehra, A. and Kurkowski, N., 2020. Development of an ESMF based flexible coupling application of ADCIRC and WAVEWATCH III for high fidelity coastal inundation studies. Journal of Marine Science and Engineering, Vol. 8(5), p.308.

This process step was performed in Matlab (ver. 2016b).
The climatological wave parameters were calculated as the weighted average of the wave conditions. The weights for each location were extracted from the wind distribution of directions and magnitudes from the climatological wind roses from the ERA5 wind dataset.
The model solutions provided significant wave height and peak wave period. Wave power is a function of wave height and period and it was calculated using the expression:
P = ρ*g^2/(64*pi) * H^2 * T where ρ is the density of water, g is the acceleration due to gravity, H is the significant wave height, and T is the peak period.

To produce the final dataset, data for grid points for the ADCIRC HSOFS grid above 10 meters elevation (NAVD88) and deeper than -30 meters bottom depth (NADV88) are replaced with a fill value to exclude areas not in the coastal area. Therefore, the resulting wave parameters are provided at all points of the computational grid less than 10 meter and shallower than -30 meter bottom depth (NAVD88).
In Matlab (v2016b), the function dlmwrite.m was used to export the data to CSV format. The shapefile was created in ArcMap (ver. 10.7.1) by Zafer Defne from the CSV file using the XY Table to Point Tool, no Z Field was used.