Model parameter input files to compare wave-averaged versus wave-resolving XBeach coastal flooding models for coral reef-lined coasts

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Frequently anticipated questions:


What does this data set describe?

Title:
Model parameter input files to compare wave-averaged versus wave-resolving XBeach coastal flooding models for coral reef-lined coasts
Abstract:
This data release includes the XBeach input data files used to evaluate the importance of explicitly modeling sea-swell waves for runup. This was examined using a 2D XBeach short wave-averaged (surfbeat, XB-SB) and a wave-resolving (non-hydrostatic, XB-NH) model of Roi-Namur Island on Kwajalein Atoll in the Republic of Marshall Islands. Results show that explicitly modelling the sea-swell component (using XB-NH) provides a better approximation of the observed runup than XB-SB (which only models the time-variation of the sea-swell wave height), despite good model performance of both models on reef flat water levels and wave heights. However, both models under-predict runup peaks. The difference between XB-SB and XB-NH increases for more extreme wave events and higher sea levels, as XB-NH resolves individual waves and therefore captures SS-wave motions in runup. However, for even larger forcing conditions with offshore wave heights of 6 m, the island is flooded in both XB-SB and XB-NH computations, regardless of the sea-swell wave energy contribution. In such cases, XB-SB would be adequate to model flooding depths and extents on the island while requiring 4-5 times less computational effort.
These input files accompany the modeling for following publication: Quataert, E., Storlazzi, C., van Dongeren, A., and McCall, R., 2020, The importance of explicitly modeling sea-swell waves for runup on reef-lined coasts: Coastal Engineering, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2020.103704
  1. How might this data set be cited?
    Quataert, Ellen, Storlazzi, Curt D., Dongeren, Ap van, and McCall, Robert, 20200508, Model parameter input files to compare wave-averaged versus wave-resolving XBeach coastal flooding models for coral reef-lined coasts: data release DOI:10.5066/P9XUI9Y1, U.S. Geological Survey, Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center, Santa Cruz, California.

    Online Links:

  2. What geographic area does the data set cover?
    West_Bounding_Coordinate: 167.461
    East_Bounding_Coordinate: 167.490
    North_Bounding_Coordinate: 9.406
    South_Bounding_Coordinate: 9.388
  3. What does it look like?
  4. Does the data set describe conditions during a particular time period?
    Calendar_Date: 2020
    Currentness_Reference:
    publication date
  5. What is the general form of this data set?
    Geospatial_Data_Presentation_Form: tab-delimited text files
  6. How does the data set represent geographic features?
    1. How are geographic features stored in the data set?
      Indirect_Spatial_Reference:
      The model results presented are for Roi-Namur, Kwajalein Atoll, Republic of the Marshall Islands.
    2. What coordinate system is used to represent geographic features?
  7. How does the data set describe geographic features?
    Entity_and_Attribute_Overview:
    Tab-delimited text files are self-contained and attribute information may be found in the XBeach User Manual at https://oss.deltares.nl/web/xbeach/.
    Entity_and_Attribute_Detail_Citation:
    The entity and attribute information was generated by the individual and/or agency identified as the originator of the data set. Please review the rest of the metadata record for additional details and information.

Who produced the data set?

  1. Who are the originators of the data set? (may include formal authors, digital compilers, and editors)
    • Ellen Quataert
    • Curt D. Storlazzi
    • Ap van Dongeren
    • Robert McCall
  2. Who also contributed to the data set?
  3. To whom should users address questions about the data?
    U.S. Geological Survey, Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center
    Attn: PCMSC Science Data Coordinator
    2885 Mission Street
    Santa Cruz, CA

    831-427-4747 (voice)
    pcmsc_data@usgs.gov

Why was the data set created?

The objective of this study is to evaluate the importance of directionally-spread sea-swell wave motions on wave runup at reef-lined coasts typically characterized by steep beaches, using a 2D XBeach short-wave averaged model (surfbeat, XB-SB, which does not include sea-swell motions) and a wave-resolving model (non-hydrostatic, XB-NH, which includes sea-swell motions) in 2D mode. Our study uses field observations of water levels, wave heights, and wave runup to drive and evaluate both models, which are subsequently used to determine the effect sea-level rise and extreme wave conditions on wave runup and its components in coral reef environments.
Any use of trade, product, or firm names is for descriptive purposes only and does not imply endorsement by the U.S. Government.

How was the data set created?

  1. From what previous works were the data drawn?
  2. How were the data generated, processed, and modified?
    Date: 2020 (process 1 of 3)
    2D XBeach short wave-averaged (surfbeat, XB-SB) and wave-resolving (non-hydrostatic, XB-NH) model input data files for Roi-Namur Island on Kwajalein Atoll in the Republic of Marshall Islands are provided. Field observations on water levels, wave heights, and wave runup were used to drive and evaluate both models, which were subsequently used to determine the effect of sea-level rise and extreme wave conditions on wave runup and its components. For an in-depth discussion of model processing, see Quataert and others (2020, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2020.103704).
    Date: 19-Oct-2020 (process 2 of 3)
    Edited metadata to add keywords section with USGS persistent identifier as theme keyword. No data were changed. Person who carried out this activity:
    U.S. Geological Survey
    Attn: VeeAnn A. Cross
    Marine Geologist
    384 Woods Hole Road
    Woods Hole, MA

    508-548-8700 x2251 (voice)
    508-457-2310 (FAX)
    vatnipp@usgs.gov
    Date: 13-Oct-2021 (process 3 of 3)
    Performed minor edits to the metadata to correct typos. No data were changed. Person who carried out this activity:
    U.S. Geological Survey
    Attn: Susan A. Cochran
    Geologist
    2885 Mission Street
    Santa Cruz, CA

    831-460-7545 (voice)
    scochran@usgs.gov
  3. What similar or related data should the user be aware of?
    Quataert, Ellen, Storlazzi, Curt D., Dongeren, Ap van, and McCall, Robert, 2020, The importance of explicitly modelling sea-swell waves for runup on reef-lined coasts: Journal article Coastal Engineering, Elsevier, Washington, DC.

    Online Links:


How reliable are the data; what problems remain in the data set?

  1. How well have the observations been checked?
    See Quataert and others (2020, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2020.103704) for an in-depth discussion of accuracy.
  2. How accurate are the geographic locations?
    No formal positional accuracy tests were conducted, nor are they applicable
  3. How accurate are the heights or depths?
    No formal positional accuracy tests were conducted, nor are they applicable
  4. Where are the gaps in the data? What is missing?
    Dataset is considered complete for the information presented, as described in the abstract. Users are advised to read the rest of the metadata record carefully for additional details.
  5. How consistent are the relationships among the observations, including topology?
    No formal logical accuracy tests were conducted. See Quataert and others (2020, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2020.103704) for additional information.

How can someone get a copy of the data set?

Are there legal restrictions on access or use of the data?
Access_Constraints: none
Use_Constraints:
USGS-authored or produced data and information are in the public domain from the U.S. Government and are freely redistributable with proper metadata and source attribution. Please recognize and acknowledge Deltares, the U.S. Geological Survey, and TU Delft as the originators of the dataset and in products derived from these data.
  1. Who distributes the data set? (Distributor 1 of 1)
    U.S. Geological Survey - ScienceBase
    Denver Federal Center, Building 810, Mail Stop 302
    Denver, CO

    1-888-275-8747 (voice)
    sciencebase@usgs.gov
  2. What's the catalog number I need to order this data set? Downloadable data in tab-delimited text format.
  3. What legal disclaimers am I supposed to read?
    Unless otherwise stated, all data, metadata and related materials are considered to satisfy the quality standards relative to the purpose for which the data were collected. Although these data and associated metadata have been reviewed for accuracy and completeness and approved for release by the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS), no warranty expressed or implied is made regarding the display or utility of the data on any other system or for general or scientific purposes, nor shall the act of distribution constitute any such warranty.
  4. How can I download or order the data?

Who wrote the metadata?

Dates:
Last modified: 13-Oct-2021
Metadata author:
U.S. Geological Survey, Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center
Attn: PCMSC Science Data Coordinator
2885 Mission Street
Santa Cruz, CA

831-427-4747 (voice)
pcmsc_data@usgs.gov
Metadata standard:
Content Standard for Digital Geospatial Metadata (FGDC-STD-001-1998)

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