Citation:
Citation_Information:
Originator: Ellen Quataert
Originator: Curt D. Storlazzi
Originator: Ap van Dongeren
Originator: Robert McCall
Publication_Date: 20200508
Title:
Model parameter input files to compare wave-averaged versus wave-resolving XBeach coastal flooding models for coral reef-lined coasts
Geospatial_Data_Presentation_Form: tab-delimited text files
Series_Information:
Series_Name: data release
Issue_Identification: DOI:10.5066/P9XUI9Y1
Publication_Information:
Publication_Place:
Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center, Santa Cruz, California
Publisher: U.S. Geological Survey
Online_Linkage: https://doi.org/10.5066/P9XUI9Y1
Online_Linkage:
Description:
Abstract:
This data release includes the XBeach input data files used to evaluate the importance of explicitly modeling sea-swell waves for runup. This was examined using a 2D XBeach short wave-averaged (surfbeat, XB-SB) and a wave-resolving (non-hydrostatic, XB-NH) model of Roi-Namur Island on Kwajalein Atoll in the Republic of Marshall Islands. Results show that explicitly modelling the sea-swell component (using XB-NH) provides a better approximation of the observed runup than XB-SB (which only models the time-variation of the sea-swell wave height), despite good model performance of both models on reef flat water levels and wave heights. However, both models under-predict runup peaks. The difference between XB-SB and XB-NH increases for more extreme wave events and higher sea levels, as XB-NH resolves individual waves and therefore captures SS-wave motions in runup. However, for even larger forcing conditions with offshore wave heights of 6 m, the island is flooded in both XB-SB and XB-NH computations, regardless of the sea-swell wave energy contribution. In such cases, XB-SB would be adequate to model flooding depths and extents on the island while requiring 4-5 times less computational effort.
These input files accompany the modeling for following publication: Quataert, E., Storlazzi, C., van Dongeren, A., and McCall, R., 2020, The importance of explicitly modeling sea-swell waves for runup on reef-lined coasts: Coastal Engineering,
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2020.103704
The objective of this study is to evaluate the importance of directionally-spread sea-swell wave motions on wave runup at reef-lined coasts typically characterized by steep beaches, using a 2D XBeach short-wave averaged model (surfbeat, XB-SB, which does not include sea-swell motions) and a wave-resolving model (non-hydrostatic, XB-NH, which includes sea-swell motions) in 2D mode. Our study uses field observations of water levels, wave heights, and wave runup to drive and evaluate both models, which are subsequently used to determine the effect sea-level rise and extreme wave conditions on wave runup and its components in coral reef environments.
Any use of trade, product, or firm names is for descriptive purposes only and does not imply endorsement by the U.S. Government.
Time_Period_of_Content:
Time_Period_Information:
Single_Date/Time:
Calendar_Date: 2020
Currentness_Reference: publication date
Status:
Progress: Complete
Maintenance_and_Update_Frequency: None planned
Spatial_Domain:
Bounding_Coordinates:
West_Bounding_Coordinate: 167.461
East_Bounding_Coordinate: 167.490
North_Bounding_Coordinate: 9.406
South_Bounding_Coordinate: 9.388
Keywords:
Theme:
Theme_Keyword_Thesaurus: USGS Metadata Identifier
Theme_Keyword: USGS:5e59692ee4b01d50924c5370
Theme:
Theme_Keyword_Thesaurus: ISO 19115 Topic Category
Theme_Keyword: geoscientificInformation
Theme_Keyword: oceans
Theme:
Theme_Keyword_Thesaurus: Data Categories for Marine Planning
Theme_Keyword: water column features
Theme:
Theme_Keyword_Thesaurus: USGS Thesaurus
Theme_Keyword: hazards
Theme_Keyword: coastal processes
Theme:
Theme_Keyword_Thesaurus: Marine Realms Information Bank (MRIB) keywords
Theme_Keyword: coral reefs
Theme_Keyword: reef
Theme_Keyword: waves
Theme_Keyword: flooding
Theme_Keyword: coastal processes
Theme_Keyword: numerical modeling
Theme:
Theme_Keyword_Thesaurus: None
Theme_Keyword: water level
Theme_Keyword: U.S. Geological Survey
Theme_Keyword: USGS
Theme_Keyword: Coastal and Marine Hazards and Resources Program
Theme_Keyword: CMHRP
Theme_Keyword: Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center
Theme_Keyword: PCMSC
Place:
Place_Keyword_Thesaurus: Geographic Names Information System (GNIS)
Place_Keyword: Roi-Namur
Place_Keyword: Kwajalein Atoll
Place_Keyword: Republic of the Marshall Islands
Access_Constraints: none
Use_Constraints:
USGS-authored or produced data and information are in the public domain from the U.S. Government and are freely redistributable with proper metadata and source attribution. Please recognize and acknowledge Deltares, the U.S. Geological Survey, and TU Delft as the originators of the dataset and in products derived from these data.
Point_of_Contact:
Contact_Information:
Contact_Organization_Primary:
Contact_Organization:
U.S. Geological Survey, Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center
Contact_Person: PCMSC Science Data Coordinator
Contact_Address:
Address_Type: mailing and physical
Address: 2885 Mission Street
City: Santa Cruz
State_or_Province: CA
Postal_Code: 95060
Contact_Voice_Telephone: 831-427-4747
Contact_Electronic_Mail_Address: pcmsc_data@usgs.gov
Cross_Reference:
Citation_Information:
Originator: Ellen Quataert
Originator: Curt D. Storlazzi
Originator: Ap van Dongeren
Originator: Robert McCall
Publication_Date: 2020
Title:
The importance of explicitly modelling sea-swell waves for runup on reef-lined coasts
Series_Information:
Series_Name: Journal article
Issue_Identification: Coastal Engineering
Publication_Information:
Publication_Place: Washington, DC
Publisher: Elsevier
Online_Linkage: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2020.103704
