Model parameter input files to compare wave-averaged versus wave-resolving XBeach coastal flooding models for coral reef-lined coasts

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Metadata:

Identification_Information:
Citation:
Citation_Information:
Originator: Ellen Quataert
Originator: Curt D. Storlazzi
Originator: Ap van Dongeren
Originator: Robert McCall
Publication_Date: 20200508
Title:
Model parameter input files to compare wave-averaged versus wave-resolving XBeach coastal flooding models for coral reef-lined coasts
Geospatial_Data_Presentation_Form: tab-delimited text files
Series_Information:
Series_Name: data release
Issue_Identification: DOI:10.5066/P9XUI9Y1
Publication_Information:
Publication_Place:
Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center, Santa Cruz, California
Publisher: U.S. Geological Survey
Online_Linkage: https://doi.org/10.5066/P9XUI9Y1
Online_Linkage:
Description:
Abstract:
This data release includes the XBeach input data files used to evaluate the importance of explicitly modeling sea-swell waves for runup. This was examined using a 2D XBeach short wave-averaged (surfbeat, XB-SB) and a wave-resolving (non-hydrostatic, XB-NH) model of Roi-Namur Island on Kwajalein Atoll in the Republic of Marshall Islands. Results show that explicitly modelling the sea-swell component (using XB-NH) provides a better approximation of the observed runup than XB-SB (which only models the time-variation of the sea-swell wave height), despite good model performance of both models on reef flat water levels and wave heights. However, both models under-predict runup peaks. The difference between XB-SB and XB-NH increases for more extreme wave events and higher sea levels, as XB-NH resolves individual waves and therefore captures SS-wave motions in runup. However, for even larger forcing conditions with offshore wave heights of 6 m, the island is flooded in both XB-SB and XB-NH computations, regardless of the sea-swell wave energy contribution. In such cases, XB-SB would be adequate to model flooding depths and extents on the island while requiring 4-5 times less computational effort.
These input files accompany the modeling for following publication: Quataert, E., Storlazzi, C., van Dongeren, A., and McCall, R., 2020, The importance of explicitly modeling sea-swell waves for runup on reef-lined coasts: Coastal Engineering, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2020.103704
Purpose:
The objective of this study is to evaluate the importance of directionally-spread sea-swell wave motions on wave runup at reef-lined coasts typically characterized by steep beaches, using a 2D XBeach short-wave averaged model (surfbeat, XB-SB, which does not include sea-swell motions) and a wave-resolving model (non-hydrostatic, XB-NH, which includes sea-swell motions) in 2D mode. Our study uses field observations of water levels, wave heights, and wave runup to drive and evaluate both models, which are subsequently used to determine the effect sea-level rise and extreme wave conditions on wave runup and its components in coral reef environments.
Any use of trade, product, or firm names is for descriptive purposes only and does not imply endorsement by the U.S. Government.
Time_Period_of_Content:
Time_Period_Information:
Single_Date/Time:
Calendar_Date: 2020
Currentness_Reference: publication date
Status:
Progress: Complete
Maintenance_and_Update_Frequency: None planned
Spatial_Domain:
Bounding_Coordinates:
West_Bounding_Coordinate: 167.461
East_Bounding_Coordinate: 167.490
North_Bounding_Coordinate: 9.406
South_Bounding_Coordinate: 9.388
Keywords:
Theme:
Theme_Keyword_Thesaurus: USGS Metadata Identifier
Theme_Keyword: USGS:5e59692ee4b01d50924c5370
Theme:
Theme_Keyword_Thesaurus: ISO 19115 Topic Category
Theme_Keyword: geoscientificInformation
Theme_Keyword: oceans
Theme:
Theme_Keyword_Thesaurus: Data Categories for Marine Planning
Theme_Keyword: water column features
Theme:
Theme_Keyword_Thesaurus: USGS Thesaurus
Theme_Keyword: hazards
Theme_Keyword: coastal processes
Theme:
Theme_Keyword_Thesaurus: Marine Realms Information Bank (MRIB) keywords
Theme_Keyword: coral reefs
Theme_Keyword: reef
Theme_Keyword: waves
Theme_Keyword: flooding
Theme_Keyword: coastal processes
Theme_Keyword: numerical modeling
Theme:
Theme_Keyword_Thesaurus: None
Theme_Keyword: water level
Theme_Keyword: U.S. Geological Survey
Theme_Keyword: USGS
Theme_Keyword: Coastal and Marine Hazards and Resources Program
Theme_Keyword: CMHRP
Theme_Keyword: Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center
Theme_Keyword: PCMSC
Place:
Place_Keyword_Thesaurus: Geographic Names Information System (GNIS)
Place_Keyword: Roi-Namur
Place_Keyword: Kwajalein Atoll
Place_Keyword: Republic of the Marshall Islands
Access_Constraints: none
Use_Constraints:
USGS-authored or produced data and information are in the public domain from the U.S. Government and are freely redistributable with proper metadata and source attribution. Please recognize and acknowledge Deltares, the U.S. Geological Survey, and TU Delft as the originators of the dataset and in products derived from these data.
Point_of_Contact:
Contact_Information:
Contact_Organization_Primary:
Contact_Organization:
U.S. Geological Survey, Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center
Contact_Person: PCMSC Science Data Coordinator
Contact_Address:
Address_Type: mailing and physical
Address: 2885 Mission Street
City: Santa Cruz
State_or_Province: CA
Postal_Code: 95060
Contact_Voice_Telephone: 831-427-4747
Contact_Electronic_Mail_Address: pcmsc_data@usgs.gov
Cross_Reference:
Citation_Information:
Originator: Ellen Quataert
Originator: Curt D. Storlazzi
Originator: Ap van Dongeren
Originator: Robert McCall
Publication_Date: 2020
Title:
The importance of explicitly modelling sea-swell waves for runup on reef-lined coasts
Series_Information:
Series_Name: Journal article
Issue_Identification: Coastal Engineering
Publication_Information:
Publication_Place: Washington, DC
Publisher: Elsevier
Online_Linkage: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2020.103704
Data_Quality_Information:
Attribute_Accuracy:
Attribute_Accuracy_Report:
See Quataert and others (2020, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2020.103704) for an in-depth discussion of accuracy.
Logical_Consistency_Report:
No formal logical accuracy tests were conducted. See Quataert and others (2020, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2020.103704) for additional information.
Completeness_Report:
Dataset is considered complete for the information presented, as described in the abstract. Users are advised to read the rest of the metadata record carefully for additional details.
Positional_Accuracy:
Horizontal_Positional_Accuracy:
Horizontal_Positional_Accuracy_Report:
No formal positional accuracy tests were conducted, nor are they applicable
Vertical_Positional_Accuracy:
Vertical_Positional_Accuracy_Report:
No formal positional accuracy tests were conducted, nor are they applicable
Lineage:
Process_Step:
Process_Description:
2D XBeach short wave-averaged (surfbeat, XB-SB) and wave-resolving (non-hydrostatic, XB-NH) model input data files for Roi-Namur Island on Kwajalein Atoll in the Republic of Marshall Islands are provided. Field observations on water levels, wave heights, and wave runup were used to drive and evaluate both models, which were subsequently used to determine the effect of sea-level rise and extreme wave conditions on wave runup and its components. For an in-depth discussion of model processing, see Quataert and others (2020, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2020.103704).
Process_Date: 2020
Process_Step:
Process_Description:
Edited metadata to add keywords section with USGS persistent identifier as theme keyword. No data were changed.
Process_Date: 20201019
Process_Contact:
Contact_Information:
Contact_Organization_Primary:
Contact_Organization: U.S. Geological Survey
Contact_Person: VeeAnn A. Cross
Contact_Position: Marine Geologist
Contact_Address:
Address_Type: Mailing and Physical
Address: 384 Woods Hole Road
City: Woods Hole
State_or_Province: MA
Postal_Code: 02543-1598
Contact_Voice_Telephone: 508-548-8700 x2251
Contact_Facsimile_Telephone: 508-457-2310
Contact_Electronic_Mail_Address: vatnipp@usgs.gov
Process_Step:
Process_Description:
Performed minor edits to the metadata to correct typos. No data were changed.
Process_Date: 20211013
Process_Contact:
Contact_Information:
Contact_Organization_Primary:
Contact_Organization: U.S. Geological Survey
Contact_Person: Susan A. Cochran
Contact_Position: Geologist
Contact_Address:
Address_Type: Mailing and Physical
Address: 2885 Mission Street
City: Santa Cruz
State_or_Province: CA
Postal_Code: 95060
Contact_Voice_Telephone: 831-460-7545
Contact_Electronic_Mail_Address: scochran@usgs.gov
Spatial_Data_Organization_Information:
Indirect_Spatial_Reference:
The model results presented are for Roi-Namur, Kwajalein Atoll, Republic of the Marshall Islands.
Entity_and_Attribute_Information:
Overview_Description:
Entity_and_Attribute_Overview:
Tab-delimited text files are self-contained and attribute information may be found in the XBeach User Manual at https://oss.deltares.nl/web/xbeach/.
Entity_and_Attribute_Detail_Citation:
The entity and attribute information was generated by the individual and/or agency identified as the originator of the data set. Please review the rest of the metadata record for additional details and information.
Distribution_Information:
Distributor:
Contact_Information:
Contact_Organization_Primary:
Contact_Organization: U.S. Geological Survey - ScienceBase
Contact_Address:
Address_Type: Mailing and Physical
Address: Denver Federal Center, Building 810, Mail Stop 302
City: Denver
State_or_Province: CO
Postal_Code: 80225
Contact_Voice_Telephone: 1-888-275-8747
Contact_Electronic_Mail_Address: sciencebase@usgs.gov
Resource_Description: Downloadable data in tab-delimited text format.
Distribution_Liability:
Unless otherwise stated, all data, metadata and related materials are considered to satisfy the quality standards relative to the purpose for which the data were collected. Although these data and associated metadata have been reviewed for accuracy and completeness and approved for release by the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS), no warranty expressed or implied is made regarding the display or utility of the data on any other system or for general or scientific purposes, nor shall the act of distribution constitute any such warranty.
Standard_Order_Process:
Digital_Form:
Digital_Transfer_Information:
Format_Name: text and grid files
Format_Version_Number: MATLAB R2020
Format_Information_Content:
Zip file contains XBeach numerical model data in tab-delimited text format.
File_Decompression_Technique: No compression applied
Transfer_Size: 9.03
Digital_Transfer_Option:
Online_Option:
Computer_Contact_Information: Access_Instructions:
Files can be downloaded using the Network_Resource_Name links. The first link is a direct link to download the zipped file of input parameters and metadata. The second link points to a landing page for the data release.
Fees: None.
Metadata_Reference_Information:
Metadata_Date: 20211013
Metadata_Contact:
Contact_Information:
Contact_Organization_Primary:
Contact_Organization:
U.S. Geological Survey, Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center
Contact_Person: PCMSC Science Data Coordinator
Contact_Address:
Address_Type: mailing and physical
Address: 2885 Mission Street
City: Santa Cruz
State_or_Province: CA
Postal_Code: 95060
Contact_Voice_Telephone: 831-427-4747
Contact_Electronic_Mail_Address: pcmsc_data@usgs.gov
Metadata_Standard_Name: Content Standard for Digital Geospatial Metadata
Metadata_Standard_Version: FGDC-STD-001-1998

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